here are the picture of the bolt. the car isnt lifted off the ground tho. if that makes a difference.


video?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9me_mR8mJs

 

oh and the rear shocks are going to be different then the front yea? i cannot find the same product fir the front and the back. like for rancho shocks theyy will have rsx's for the front but not the rear and rs5000 for the rear. this normal?

 

It doesn't look like it is fully counter sunk into the cross member therefore you should still be able to turn it in more (crank em). First thing first is you need to make sure the truck is at OEM hieght before cranking 8 full turns.

Look at post #4 but also read the thread:

Aglinments including 2 and 4 wheel:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...ment-woes.html

 

hmm okay thanks. what oem height is a 2001 4x4 supposed to be at? and after i finish this what should i do to make sure my alignment is correct when i take it in to get aligned? will they touch the height i have adjusted by cranking the torsion bars and changing the shackles? . what i mean is after the alignment will my car still be lifted those 2 inches?. ill read the srevice manual thanks.

 

Same 73mm difference.


The starting point is at OEM height then turn in 8 turns and the shackle or add-a-leaf for the 2" in the rear. This will give you a 2" lift front and back.

 

ok thanks. i heard during alignments they can mess with your height to allign the wheels/? will they mess with the height that i adjusted when i get an alignment??

 

Possibly, just tell them not to touch the t-bars aside from making sure both sides are even. The D can be aligned without touch ing the t-bars.

 

does getting a t/s lift increase the ware on the diff, steering components etc? since they will be at a different angle??

 

yes accelerates ball joint wear doesnt matter if you have moogs

 

Just the ball joints.