lol its cool, chicks dig mine cuz it drags on the ground

 

Now that concept just don't cut it! LOL. Come on, the length of travel for the air to blow thru the center console and out the back, there is not enough variables to actually steal the heat/cold away from the air by the time it blows out the back. I am just guessing it must have something to do with the blend door. The air coming out the rear center console, it is barely warm when compared to the front. That's with the temp dial between cold and hot. But when the temp dial is one notch from max hot setting, then the luke warm air turns to furnace hot hot air! Just really no way to provide some good temp control on the air coming out of the rear center console.

If the Temp dial is cable operated, I will have to figure out how to integrate a cable type bypass valve. Otherwise, electric on/off will be the only way to go. If I want to be lazy, I can set the electric bypass valve to bypass when the compressor comes on, but just realize that will defeat the ability to remove the foggy windows buildup in the winter when you need the compressor on to assist in reducing the humidity in the cabin. Just may bet a small luminated toggle switch for electric bypass valve. Best to get the valve in the normal bypass position when no electric is applied. That way, you only flip the switch if you need heat in the cabin.

This way, I think installing a bypass valve should preserve the heater core for quite a very long time. My OEM 2nd core was purchased in jan 04, so I guess 6 years before it blew is decent considering the coolant constantly flowing thru the core at all times year round..


Definitely will know that my A/C will be much much colder when summer comes! No heat to possibly mix with my A/C during the summer.

 

well, you dont 'need' the a/c to remove foggy windows,
and the heater core i took out of my truck was original and still didnt leak, 12.5 years old now

 

Kensai<----You can get a lil round push button from radio shack for cheap and it will look nice. Hell even a lighted one at that. I just hate the toggle and they look so nasty. I would install it in somewhere other than in the dash so for instance you can put it in the heat control or other place that can be replaced at a later time without creating holes and such.


I can see the heat through the floor being cold for a few but not like kensai is talking about. Thinkin something else is going on there.

 

I guess I will have to purchase a click on, click off push button! Momentarily push button won't work in this case! I'll have to see if they have a luminated one I can use to know if it is on or off. I will definitely put this project together once I save up enough money to pay my buddy to tear down the dash again to replace my core for the 2nd time.

 

Remember to only use distilled water and antifreeze mix on fill up after your flush on the coolant instead of the 50/50 premixed stuff. This will help for sure!

 

50/50 Premix is perfectly fine. In fact, probably better than leaving it to chance on someone mixing their own stuff. No reason at all to not trust Prestone on their premix.

IndyDurango

 

Im on 3rd day removing the dash to get to H-Core and Evap removal / install. (3rd day due to keeping my real job). Do I have to totally remove my steering column to get to the H-core/Evap? Also, while lowering the steering column to the floorboard, I snapped the cable that connects somewhere to my steering column to the dashboard gear/shift indicator (you know the 'P R D 1 2') cable is still intact, but where in the hell does it attached to the column? Can you give me some insight (prefer pictures)?

 

I see a double post.......LOL


Look here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...d-removal.html

 

lmao, your right hydra . . .