From what I've experienced you need to use a pry bar to check the ball joints because of the pressure on the suspension from the torsion bar.

 

Using a pry bar works great for testing Ball Joints. The manual states that you should use them while using a dial indicator in specifications to .060

Could be a loose control arm or bad bearings. Looks like you got it either way.

 

Hello, I know I am bumping an old thread but I have a relevant concern. I want to replace the stock shocks on my 98 with Bilsteins. Would it be smart to replace the ball joints, tierods, and bushings before I do that?

 

I do not believe the shocks matter, I r/r'd my shocks before the suspension work. I would recommend that since you need alignment with ball joints, tie rods....I would recommend getting the Ball Joints, Tie Rods done at the same time. If you need tires this would also be the time that way you have a good baseline for suspension wear. If you are spending all the money on the suspension work, I would talk to the shop about giving you a break on labor for the shocks. It would be so much easier to do when the front tire is off and the D is on a lift. If you are doing the work yourself, then it shouldnt matter. I do believe that you will have to remove or at least turn the front wheels all the way to the stops. The only thing I cant remember right now is
which direction.

It is either all the way to the left for left wheel right for right etc....or all the way to the left for right etc.....you should see.


Smart move on the Bilsteins BTW!!!! mine work pretty well and the dust boot over the shock strut helps keep the dust and foreign debris out.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! I will go ahead and get the Bilsteins and install them. My current shocks are shot and I have terrible tires on the D right now. The combination feels like I am riding on jello suspension and wheels.

The installation of the shocks doesn't seem too difficult and I want to do it myself. All I need is a torque wrench and regular ratchet, right? I can probably get by with the emergency jack and a tire iron. Then again I may buy a jack because I need one, haha.

Soon, I do want to replace the stock suspension with Moog parts. I have a 98 with 125k on it. I know its a matter of only a year or so before they start giving me problems and I do not want my wheel to fall off! Haha, I assume they would start making noises before they went out, I hope. There are only halves of the original bushings remaining. It needs the work badly.

 

The one thing other than the ratchet/socket/torque wrench/jack and comes very strongly recommended is a can of PB Blaster or WD40 some sort of penetrating oil. Apply to the bolts (both sides) about 24-48 hours prior to the shock removal. Trust it will make quick or at least quicker work of loosening the bolts. Don't forget the back up wrench!!!!

Good Call on Moog ball Joints. I had mine done at Sears and just out of sheer luck the local vendor carried Moog Greasable as their primary selection.


If you have 125k you probably have way less than a year. Mine went for inspection at 133K and the uppers had about 1/4 inch deflection. I realize that Minnesota and Pennsylvania winter roads greatly reduced their life span though.

Get them taken care of....While your at it, have them check the hub bearings.

If you pm me your email address I can send some photos of my installation.

 

how long after a recall is issued will it remain in effect? we just picked up an 02 durango rt with ball joing issues, pcm burned problems and f'ed wipers. After seeing the recall list im hoping maybe the stealership will cover some of these repairs. Id like to have an idea of what to expect before going to the dealer cuz im sure they would rather not cover any of it. Have you got anyadvice for a new durango owner? Thanx guys

 

see if the balljoints have been done before, if they are bolted on the recall has already been done, however any recall which has not been done should be covered by the dealer even now.