33/1050/15's installed, impressions.
#1
33/1050/15's installed, impressions.
Just as an fyi to anyone wanting larger than 31's I had the 33.1050's put on yesterday. I have not lift what so ever.
street driving, light rub full lock rear of wheelwell plastic bit. some curb-hopping & running up on a stump in the yard pretty good rub just shy of lock.
will update after I do the T/S shackle lift, parts are on order & should be in by wed.
Personally I like the look & after I raise her a bit I will lower the bump stops a tad to ensure I maintain clearance, I mostly run trails & forest service roads where ground clearance is far more significant than articulation.
My wheels are the stock 15x8 I also felt going this route would put less stress on the brgs & ball joints.
I'm stressed about the ball joint issue by the way. I think I'll be carrying spares.
I'll post up some pics when I have light.
street driving, light rub full lock rear of wheelwell plastic bit. some curb-hopping & running up on a stump in the yard pretty good rub just shy of lock.
will update after I do the T/S shackle lift, parts are on order & should be in by wed.
Personally I like the look & after I raise her a bit I will lower the bump stops a tad to ensure I maintain clearance, I mostly run trails & forest service roads where ground clearance is far more significant than articulation.
My wheels are the stock 15x8 I also felt going this route would put less stress on the brgs & ball joints.
I'm stressed about the ball joint issue by the way. I think I'll be carrying spares.
I'll post up some pics when I have light.
#6
#7
they also make em in the all terrain which is what I got. for the trivia of it theres additionally a 33/9.50/15 but only in the mudder, I had those on my old flat fender.
So why the couch hidie guy? has there been some argument over this fitment? I think this is the size they should have come with & will require very little to prevent rubbing or at least minimize it, I've always been willing to accept a little rubbing.
anyway, I was up all night watching my damn boat slip anchor & follow the tide up the beach in a windstorm & desperately need some sleep now that she's safe, fracking beached but safe. gotta try to float her again next high tide.
will post pics soon, will get close ups of wheels at lock.
So why the couch hidie guy? has there been some argument over this fitment? I think this is the size they should have come with & will require very little to prevent rubbing or at least minimize it, I've always been willing to accept a little rubbing.
anyway, I was up all night watching my damn boat slip anchor & follow the tide up the beach in a windstorm & desperately need some sleep now that she's safe, fracking beached but safe. gotta try to float her again next high tide.
will post pics soon, will get close ups of wheels at lock.
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#8
I had it up on a stump with one front wheel off the ground, cranked it all the way both ways, after the t/s lift & repositioning of the bump-stops they will barely make contact, these are the 10.50's on stock wheels. tread-width & offset have not changed, radius increase is under 1 1/2 inches. I am fully aware that some trimming may be involved with the wheel well liner nor would it bother me to find I need to move the bumper a bit.
anyway, their on and I'm going to make them work. I will update the thread to indicate exactly what I have to do & why to accommodate the 33's. as I said I know I'm giving up flex for clearance, it will be up to others to decide if they want to make the same compromise. Fair enough?
#9
I had it up on a stump with one front wheel off the ground, cranked it all the way both ways, after the t/s lift & repositioning of the bump-stops they will barely make contact, these are the 10.50's on stock wheels. tread-width & offset have not changed, radius increase is under 1 1/2 inches. I am fully aware that some trimming may be involved with the wheel well liner nor would it bother me to find I need to move the bumper a bit.
anyway, their on and I'm going to make them work. I will update the thread to indicate exactly what I have to do & why to accommodate the 33's. as I said I know I'm giving up flex for clearance, it will be up to others to decide if they want to make the same compromise. Fair enough?
anyway, their on and I'm going to make them work. I will update the thread to indicate exactly what I have to do & why to accommodate the 33's. as I said I know I'm giving up flex for clearance, it will be up to others to decide if they want to make the same compromise. Fair enough?
And if not you must have the height set OEM as most people don't because of lazy techs doing alignments.
And please update us as that is fair enough.
#10
sorry for the delay, i had to get my boat off the beach & it occupied the better part of my time for the last few days.
First, my truck is totally stock, to the best of my knowledge, down to the riveted ball joints. It sits pretty level. I didn't take measurements before & don't think they'd have much relevance at this point.
The pics are with the truck straddling a ditch, hard to see the contour but the suspension is maxed out. the pass side rubs more than the drivers side which is why I used it as the compression side in the pics. I am using a camera phone to take the pics so I am sorry to not have a close up of the suspension but it was to dark in there & the pics just wont turn out.
My shackle kit just arrived today but I'm beat. I'll get it done tomorrow & post up again. I plan on putting in the shackles & then leveling out the truck with the torsion bar adjustment.
At that time I'll judge what needs trimming and how much I want to lower the bump stops.
it's important to remember these are the stock wheels, the offsets & angles remain just as the factory intended just with less clearance. the very rear of the wheel well is the tightest point. lowering the bumps a bit will keep me off there, trim the bit behind the bumper, obviously close in the pics. I do plan on replacing the bumper with something more stout & imagine I'll gain clearance.
With mudders you might catch the liner at the rear of the wheel well but the a/ts don't seem to have a problem aside of rubbing there. in other words no fender shredding contact.
This is all of course me just talking about me & my truck. I'm not endorsing the use of oversize tires on stock trucks.
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First, my truck is totally stock, to the best of my knowledge, down to the riveted ball joints. It sits pretty level. I didn't take measurements before & don't think they'd have much relevance at this point.
The pics are with the truck straddling a ditch, hard to see the contour but the suspension is maxed out. the pass side rubs more than the drivers side which is why I used it as the compression side in the pics. I am using a camera phone to take the pics so I am sorry to not have a close up of the suspension but it was to dark in there & the pics just wont turn out.
My shackle kit just arrived today but I'm beat. I'll get it done tomorrow & post up again. I plan on putting in the shackles & then leveling out the truck with the torsion bar adjustment.
At that time I'll judge what needs trimming and how much I want to lower the bump stops.
it's important to remember these are the stock wheels, the offsets & angles remain just as the factory intended just with less clearance. the very rear of the wheel well is the tightest point. lowering the bumps a bit will keep me off there, trim the bit behind the bumper, obviously close in the pics. I do plan on replacing the bumper with something more stout & imagine I'll gain clearance.
With mudders you might catch the liner at the rear of the wheel well but the a/ts don't seem to have a problem aside of rubbing there. in other words no fender shredding contact.
This is all of course me just talking about me & my truck. I'm not endorsing the use of oversize tires on stock trucks.
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Last edited by Dislander; 01-22-2010 at 06:43 PM.