No, what I meant to say, it is best to do both if it can be budgeted. There are positive and negative views if you only do intake or exhaust.

And yes, from a cost perspective, most users start on the intake side and work their way out. Lots of upgades you can do from intake side that is way cheaper than changing out muffler.
I did not mention stock muffler. I meant to say if and when I am ready to budget the exhaust, I will go tru duals or cat back exhaust. Replace stock with performance single in dual out mufflers so I still have the dual pipes look in back.

Yes, I agree, you have to look at the upgrades you plan to budget and what kind of potential gain you will get out of it. Lots of different places to start and everyone has their own starting point in building up their ride.

So from my own ride, I had to start out small and with a very small budget and work my way up. Some upgrade directions I took may not be the right way, but it was the afforadable way. Eventually I will have all the upgrades installed and level out and work with each other to maximize my performance gains.

 

what the heck, shrug, I've got a slugger & an equine that has met his dear & fluffy lord...

If you were to put a vacuum gauge on the intake pipe of a stock system you will find it is not all that restrictive. if the filter is clean it may not even be noticeable. aftermarket intakes, louder yes, but we're talking hp numbers here. a large number of the intake kits expose the intake to hot engine air, net real world gain zero.

when you read K&N's propaganda you discover that their dyno results are all done on trucks with a cat back, and in some cases a chip/tuner. then comparing their system to the NOW restrictive stock intake big numbers for flashy ads can be obtained.

The above statement does not apply to their line of stock type replacement filters.

When you do get your exhaust done you're going to really wonder why you didn't start there.

 

Dislander<----Look into this CIA. 5.9L, 5.2L, 3.9L, and 4.7L Custom Ram Air - DIY


Kensia<---- is right, to do one without the other has no bearing because you mess up the flow. You need to do an intake and exhaust to make them work to their maximum.

 

No. Same in city after and only lost 1 or 2 hwy after the change. This is without towing. (Empty)

While towing, MPG actually increased. That's towing 7,000 lbs.

 

Took some time to do research. K&n full intake with no cat back is a 10-15 hp increase. 15 is with a cat back vs stock intake.

That would compare to a 23hp increase with a cat back only. "Dynomax" brand. there are better numbers out there but since this one only cost about ten bucks more than the K&N intake I used it.

If anyone has a factual argument to these published numbers I am more than open to hear them. otherwise I stand on my statement.

Last note, Intake increase was at the top of the rpm range while exhaust was more toward the middle, combining the two of course would be best but as a starting point...

 

You've been reading to much manufactures crap. Go install the stuff on your rig and get those numbers on a dino. It won't happen dude. Then again, believe what you want as it's your choise and your opinion.

 

Those are Dyno numbers. not exclusively from the manufacturers propaganda either. you'll find, if you look, Hot rod, Trucking, ect... have all done cat back & intake "shoot-outs".

If on the other hand you have something factual, like you own dyno run that refutes these numbers. or anyone else's for that matter.

I for one have no reason to waste cash on a dyno for sport.

 

You pull a different power curve and that's more factual than the actual numbers.


I'm not saying you can't pull higher numbers in any way, I'm simply stating that you won't get those numbers without other modification which I stated back in post #13. You can't just bolt on a exhaust system and have a better flow without increasing to match the intake.

 

HiFlow cats on the Durango yield next to nothing in terms of power increases. Why? The SS setup already is uses a high flow cat as stock equipment.

A better setup is leaving the stock cat in place, replacing the canoe muffler with a performance muffler, complete with a small section of pipe to make it fit and a nice chrome tip all welded in place.

Then... if a 5.x... headers and an improved TB (Fastman and PPH) coupled with the K&N FIPK2 completes the setup. Want more? R/T heads, M1 intake and a B&G or SCT Flash. Done.

If it is a 4.7... after the muffler it is a HiPerf intake, replacement cams, Fastman TB, SCT Flash and done.

IndyDurango

 

Or just change the gears to 4.56:1 and be faster than it would be with all of those. lol