Terrible Gas Mileage on 01 Durango
#11
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there are some incorrect bits of info running around regarding octane ratings.
The oil companies would love for you to buy super but..
Octane is a rating that indicates a fuels resistance to burning, if you have a higher compression engine that knocks or pings on regular you need to increase the rating of the fuel till knock is eliminated.
the higher octane rating means the fuel will be ignited by the spark plug at the designated time. not a hot spot in the cylinder or the heat of compression.
If however you don't knock on regular & run the higher octane fuel, you're not only wasting your money but the higher octane fuel will not burn as efficiently. costing both power & economy.
On the other side, if you run a lower grade & get any amount of knock, power curve is over. you will not produce squat for power or fuel economy any higher in the band after that.
Knock & ping being pre-detonation events & now fighting the rise of the piston on compression stroke.
Back to our originally scheduled thread.
The oil companies would love for you to buy super but..
Octane is a rating that indicates a fuels resistance to burning, if you have a higher compression engine that knocks or pings on regular you need to increase the rating of the fuel till knock is eliminated.
the higher octane rating means the fuel will be ignited by the spark plug at the designated time. not a hot spot in the cylinder or the heat of compression.
If however you don't knock on regular & run the higher octane fuel, you're not only wasting your money but the higher octane fuel will not burn as efficiently. costing both power & economy.
On the other side, if you run a lower grade & get any amount of knock, power curve is over. you will not produce squat for power or fuel economy any higher in the band after that.
Knock & ping being pre-detonation events & now fighting the rise of the piston on compression stroke.
Back to our originally scheduled thread.
#12
#14
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OK..so I got down and started smelling the tailpipe (now after my headache) and it seems as if it might be running a little rich. I have no errors coming up indicating anything..
There is no black smoke, but you can smell something strong coming out of the pipe.
Any suggestions?
Also, I get alot of conflicting info...does my Durango have 2 O2 sensors in the front and the back or just one in the front..and one in the back?
There is no black smoke, but you can smell something strong coming out of the pipe.
Any suggestions?
Also, I get alot of conflicting info...does my Durango have 2 O2 sensors in the front and the back or just one in the front..and one in the back?
Last edited by mewfie; 01-29-2010 at 04:48 PM. Reason: forgot to add a question.
#15
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Mewife; If the converter is working at all there will be very little to determine from the tail pipe.
You may have o2 sensors failing without coding, I doubt the map sensor would do so but maybe?.
The o2's will become contaminated, vaguely remember reading something that made it sound like they would need periodic replacement, like sixty K. I have never known them to be done as a maint item though.
I can say when I replaced the one in my galant it made a difference even though the old one did show good.
if you can do us a favor, swap the tune parts first, then recalculate mpg. swap out the o2's & let us know the mpg difference.
I don't recall having ever gone after o2's for fuel economy reasons but am very curious to see what if any difference fresh ones make.
You could have a shop drill a hole in ahead of the cat & find out what the ecu is setting mix at by stuffing a gas analyzer in there. but short of that no way to say 100% if may be running rich.
TM985: Just stick with regular. if you feel you may benefit from the additives in super periodically then you can by Chevrons Techroline additive at most auto parts stores. other than the octane boosters that additive is the only difference to super.
I will say I have had good luck with the techroline additive for my customers that don't want to spend for a proper injector cleaning. you will want to change the oil after that tank clears, the additives will put the stuff they remove in the oil as well as burning it.
You may have o2 sensors failing without coding, I doubt the map sensor would do so but maybe?.
The o2's will become contaminated, vaguely remember reading something that made it sound like they would need periodic replacement, like sixty K. I have never known them to be done as a maint item though.
I can say when I replaced the one in my galant it made a difference even though the old one did show good.
if you can do us a favor, swap the tune parts first, then recalculate mpg. swap out the o2's & let us know the mpg difference.
I don't recall having ever gone after o2's for fuel economy reasons but am very curious to see what if any difference fresh ones make.
You could have a shop drill a hole in ahead of the cat & find out what the ecu is setting mix at by stuffing a gas analyzer in there. but short of that no way to say 100% if may be running rich.
TM985: Just stick with regular. if you feel you may benefit from the additives in super periodically then you can by Chevrons Techroline additive at most auto parts stores. other than the octane boosters that additive is the only difference to super.
I will say I have had good luck with the techroline additive for my customers that don't want to spend for a proper injector cleaning. you will want to change the oil after that tank clears, the additives will put the stuff they remove in the oil as well as burning it.
#16
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Not to hi-jack and still on topic: I have asked before and haven't got answers that I can understand ... what does it sound like when the engine "pings"? I really want to be able to tell since my Durango has a sticker on the gas cap that says "Premium fuel" but I want to run something less expensive. I just can't tell if it pings. And needless to say, my mileage sucks big time ... and it's burning a lot of oil, but nothing is visible. (I know only because I check it regularly and sometimes end up adding 2 quarts. But the engine is running just fine as far as I can tell.) So ... ping: how can you tell?
#17
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It will make a tap sound. You sould notice this more at idle then highter speeds but it can still do it anyway. If you have a sticker on the cap (and most likely on the fuel gauge) then you are running a more aggressive tune (only SOME R/T's came that way) and you should use 91 octane fuel, however you could try a little 87 octane to see if it knocks and if so then don't run it.
Things to look at in this thread:
1. 02 sensor (upstream).
2. MAP Sensor.
3. Transmission Filter and fluid (ATF+4).
Things to look at in this thread:
1. 02 sensor (upstream).
2. MAP Sensor.
3. Transmission Filter and fluid (ATF+4).
#18
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Engine ping sounds like marbles in a tin can. Not always very loud but is noticeable. A little ping here and there is ok, any sustained ping is bad. Ping will occur under load like during acceleration. I run regular in a 5.9 and its all good, I ran regular with the stupid superchip handheld performance tune and it didnt ping with that either.
#19
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Not to hi-jack and still on topic: I have asked before and haven't got answers that I can understand ... what does it sound like when the engine "pings"? I really want to be able to tell since my Durango has a sticker on the gas cap that says "Premium fuel" but I want to run something less expensive. I just can't tell if it pings. And needless to say, my mileage sucks big time ... and it's burning a lot of oil, but nothing is visible. (I know only because I check it regularly and sometimes end up adding 2 quarts. But the engine is running just fine as far as I can tell.) So ... ping: how can you tell?
#20
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A PM to Mewfie
I would do the MAP or 02 sensors first.
To answer your questions you need to give me all the info on your rig. I went to you first post and found you have a 2001 Durango 4.7L and I hope 4X4.
You have 4 - 02 sensors on that. You have one BEFORE the CAT's on each side of the engine (after the manifolds but before the CAT's) then you have 1 after the CAT's on each side. The one's you want to replace are between the manifolds (engine) and the CAT. These are the pre-cat or bank 1 sensors. I recommend going with OEM parts from the dealer on 02 sensors.
Could be a MAP sensor as well. These you can pick up about anywhere but I am keen on getting it from the dealer.
If the engine is running kinda warmer and you are having to use a lot more throttle to keep speeds then do a trany fluid (ATF+4 only) and you have 2 filters. No band adjustment in there.
You have 4 - 02 sensors on that. You have one BEFORE the CAT's on each side of the engine (after the manifolds but before the CAT's) then you have 1 after the CAT's on each side. The one's you want to replace are between the manifolds (engine) and the CAT. These are the pre-cat or bank 1 sensors. I recommend going with OEM parts from the dealer on 02 sensors.
Could be a MAP sensor as well. These you can pick up about anywhere but I am keen on getting it from the dealer.
If the engine is running kinda warmer and you are having to use a lot more throttle to keep speeds then do a trany fluid (ATF+4 only) and you have 2 filters. No band adjustment in there.