1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Need to revist the subject

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  #11  
Old 02-08-2010, 10:22 PM
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Nevermind. Good luck.

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IndyD
 

Last edited by IndyDurango; 02-08-2010 at 10:25 PM.
  #12  
Old 02-09-2010, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by moparnut1
By the way once the engine is warmed up the cold should not be a factor. The computer would register that the engine is at operating temp and not make corrections for the cold, it makes sense when you first start the eng. and it's cold,

Anyway I can see your point of view that moisture is working it's way into it and fouling it. It does get hot and HUMID in so. fl. BUT I have read so many other posts on other forums from people in other areas that aren't heavy humid, so your idea may or may not have merit, doesn't hurt to check though. I'll probably checking this out on the weekend. That's why I'm gathering ideas now.
Your temperature is not a incorrect analogy. While the engine is cold and the Air Charge Temp is cold the PCM indicates a heavy 02 reading therefore increases the fuel to reach stoichometric ratio of 14.7:1. When it's cold outside the air is heavier and therefore richer fuel is needed to hit the correct ratio. Just because the engine is up to temp doesn't mean the ratio is "magically changed". Sure it changes a little but not that much. The PCM monitors the atmospheric pressure as well for this same reason because of elevation and barometric pressures changes then regulates fuel to match an outcome with the 02's.

Further, how can you say you've:
I can rule out such things as spark plugs, air cleaner, fuel injectors, vac. leaks. mostly because none of those things would be temp. reactive. Does anyone else have thoughts on the matter?
The plugs for instance; This is a classic with people "saying it's not them because I say so". Well hate to tell you.....Well your wrong!.....Do you have bran new Champion Copper plugs in there properly gapped, or did ya rely on the shop to do it?

Air cleaner: Did you check it and incoming airways to look for rodent nests and such?

Fuel injectors: Maybe clogged and not allowing the proper "enriched" fuel over regular spray patterns?

Vacuum: Did you test for leaks?

Something tells me you simply can't rule out anything!


As for my expertize:

1. Load test the battery and clean all connections!
2. Clean your TB inside and out including IAC.
3. Replace and gap the CORRECT spark plugs.
4. Could be your Air Charge Temp Sensor.
5. MAP sensor
6. 02
7. Crankshaft sensor (but then again they are moisture sensitive).
8. Fuel pressure?
9. TPS
10. Crappy cheap fuel?
11. Check your alternator output because you never changed it when you changed the battery.


Over and out!.......
 
  #13  
Old 02-09-2010, 12:35 AM
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HS, I was going to suggest vac too, however after being so summarily dismissed, opinion obviously wasn't what he was looking for. I believe it was a fishing expedition for misguided affirmation of his predetermined assumptions. Sorry to see we all didn't roll over for him. Riigghhttt.

Yo buddy, if I pass you on the side of the road broke down, I promise to honk and wave!

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  #14  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:03 PM
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OK guys, I suppose I'm an amature not like you experts in the field of IF and PERHAPS. You know when you have to run down a problem you have to eliminate some things right off the bat. Like if you recall reading in what I posted so far, I did mention the batt. was changed and upgraded to a higher amp batt. and before and since that change the condition has neither improved or worsened, and that batt, has cranked and kept all accessories running operating perfectly in 10 deg weather, and as far as the alternator, they have come a long long way in durability, and if you insist on changing your alternator everytime you change a batt. then I need to buy stock in alternator manufacturing. The electrical system has never indicated any signs of fault. Now then if there are any sensors that may have fluctuating voltages, then the sensor may be at fault, be it from moisture intrusion or some other malady. Now the fuel injectors do pose some interest, since there is over 100,000 mostly highway miles on them there may be something to what you think, although this problem was around many many miles and years ago, and my gas mileage has not suffered and i would think that if the injectors have been clogged for this many years they would have finally crapped long ago, but hey thats my loginc what the hell do i know. Now then the idea of the tps being the culprit has merit, but again I have cleaned it in the past and nothing has changed. I'm curious how no one has pushed the fuel filter idea, but then again, if it's that, then that will have to wait for hell to freeze over for me to replace it (it's in the tank) By the way I always gap my plugs myself I never trust anyone to do it. I have already replaced the plugs and of course nothing changed, filter replaced nothing changed. I'm trying to narrow down a hinky sensor. Oh an there are no mountains here in south florida, but when the air cools in winter the problem goes away. So if you braintrusts have anymore jibes waste them on someone else. I'm just trying to get eveyone to think out of the box.
 
  #15  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:25 PM
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Oh and hydra, the air charge sensor is one that I will def. look into. The O2 I may change only because I have over 100.000 miles on the eng. The map sensor also another viable thing to check into. The crankshaft sensor, not likely, I think it would manifest itself in other ways as well, not just a stumbling idle. As for fuel pressure, certainly the fuel is affected by temp. and if it is the fuel pressure then I'm looking at either a fulel pump or maybe a regulator for the pump, which I don't even know if the durango has one or the pump is it. I don't look forward to the idea of having to go in to the tank. I'll have to get a gauge to check the pressure, and see where i go from there. As for a vac. leak I thought about that a long time ago, and I dismissed it, I forget why, I may have used a vac gauge, i don;t recall, I may have to check it again. I still maintain that a sensor somewhere is hinky. I just remebered another thing that used to cause a headache like this, the pcv valve, they also need to be replaced as part of regular maintenace and I just realized I haven't changed one or seen one in years. Gonna have to check where it's located on the engine, I know it has one, just don't recall where. So guys keep giving me ideas not jibes, they don't help.
 
  #16  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:26 PM
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LOL. You won't listen to those that have travelled the same path before you so we will stop trying to be your guide as we watch you slip and fall over that well worn path's edge.

I (as others I am sure) have more input for your spacelessparagraphthatisunreadable but I'll save my "jibes" for others to "waste" it on.

"Jibes"?

Paraphrasing the great words of Wayne's World, "Your not worthy." Good luck.
 

Last edited by IndyDurango; 02-10-2010 at 12:36 AM.
  #17  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:38 PM
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my car idles around 500 when fully warmed up. just thought id throw that out there lol.
 
  #18  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:55 PM
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that's about right mrwilliwizard. Right under 600 should be fine.

IndyD
 
  #19  
Old 02-10-2010, 12:46 AM
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Moparnut1<-------You don't know as much as you think you do! I gave you the tools and options, now it's your turn. If you remember you came to us because YOU don't know the answer to your own question. Stop trying to think you know the answer when you don't. In the words of the wise "stop and listen and you might learn something".


You know what your doing so go ahead and teach us?
 
  #20  
Old 02-10-2010, 07:16 AM
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Okay... Enough posting. No need for suggestions/insults/knowledge/blah blah.

Mopar nut-Check/clean/replace your sensors then come back with your results, untill then leave this pissing contest alone.

If you want to keep posting be sure to remind your self made (shade tree) mech that you do not know what you are talking about. You have have no knowledge of sensor location, and most of your posts seem to rely on web sourced/text sourced theory so before your internet badass self decides to put down others suggestions as if you actually know what you are talking about and someway they have offended you please think twice.

Example:
Suggested: "Check your battery"
Decent/polite answer: "It was recently replaced and its current state is above 12.4v and 14v active alternator "

Wrong answer:

Originally Posted by moparnut1
Nope that's not it, as I said this happens when stopped at a light, and it clears up in cold weather and happens in warm weather. Clearly that is not a battery issue, as for the TPS if you can illustrtate how the outside temp could be impacting it I'm open to learning.
Why its wrong: Bold text may exaggerate, but in no way is it "Clearly not a battery issue" as you do not know what the issue is, and that statement is useless until tested. In the real world here, you cannot test something by reading wikapedia. Until you test the battery and charging output that answer is void.

Above is just a example, please refrain from making comments without factual results
 

Last edited by Duranged408; 02-10-2010 at 07:18 AM.


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