Ok....
Just replaced the front shocks (KYB), and yes they are torqued and tight.
Wheel seemed fine after the shocks were installed. Drove a 900 mile
road trip to So Cal and back home to Arizona. Noticed a little humming
and slight road vibration coming from the front drivers side on the way home, about 600 miles after the shocks were replaced.
A week later drove down to Phoenix (100 miles one way) and the same slight vibration.
On the return trip got about 65 miles into it and the front wheel still had a slight vibration, but was getting louder. The last 35 miles became progressively worse with a grinding noise within 3 miles of my house. All of the miles were freeway miles (65-90mph). The vibrations were mostly at 75 at first, then super bad at any speed, even 35mph. I thought it was the wheel bearing so I replaced it with a Timken this afternoon. While checking everything out I found that the driver front wheel had about a 1/2"-1" play from the 3-9 o'clock position while the tire was firmly planted on the ground. The rod in front of the a-arm (tie rod?) looks to be the problem, and has all the play. No play in the 6/12 position, and the wheel spins smooth now. Any suggestions as I have never worked on steering parts before. Thanks......Jeff


PS....My shocks were very worn before replacing them...can you say bounce, bounce?
I'm running 31's at aprox 35 PSI if it makes any difference.

 

Yeah sounds like a tie rod...Now you just gotta find out if its inner or outer.(Outer tie rod is the one by the wheel.)

 

well, since you already got the hub bearing replaced, i agree with the tie rod diagnostic, but you would probably notice that in the steering wheel too, and afaik you wont be able to move the wheel 3-9 while the truck is on the ground unless you have some sort of super-strength . . .

 

I was wrong about feeling the play with the wheel fully grounded.
I can feel the excessive play when the wheel is barely touching the ground.
It's the tie rod for sure. Both ends look like they have play so I'm going to
replace both of them.

Any tips or suggestions on removing/installing them?

Thanks!

ps....do I really need a puller or can I tap off the ends with a hammer??

 

I changed my idler arm with just a hammer, but a pickle fork or puller may be needed if the tapered stud does not want to come out of the knuckle

 

idk iv never had to do the tie-rods on my truck but the right tools make any and every job easier, besides its another excuse to add to the collection (always a plus IMO)

 

I just did one on mine and I didn't need to get out my separator. I just tapped it and it popped right out!

 

Ok cool. Got the parts this afternoon and decided against buying the puller.
Thought I would try the hammer tap approach first, carefully of course!!

Tomorrow will be installation day, if it doesn't rain.
Thanks!