1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

99 Durango Idle and Surging Issues

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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by IndyDurango
Double check your battery CONNECTIONS.

Also, where the coolant leaked, check the ground FROM the battery to see if there is corrosion there.

IndyDurango



UPDATE: BAD BATTERY I wouldn't have believed it if I wouldn't have tried it! I decided to start the vehicle then remove the battery cables. (Was curious if the alt and batt tests were wrong.) The vehicle ran fine without the battery. I then turned the headlights and heater blower on, still ran fine. With the battery disconnected I then hit the throttle. It ran great didn't even sputter! Connected the battery and tried the throttle and it stalled out again. Turns out the battery test given by (a well known auto parts chain) was faulty. Again, Thank you and the others for the advice!! It led me to the problem.
 

Last edited by OneQuestion; Mar 17, 2010 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Your welcome.

Low idle stumble = battery.

Even when the poster says, "no, it's new" etc etc etc. The battery or the connections are almost always the culprit with low idle stumble.

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Last edited by IndyDurango; Mar 17, 2010 at 10:31 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 10:59 PM
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^ You owe him a steak and a beer! ^
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by OneQuestion
UPDATE: BAD BATTERY I wouldn't have believed it if I wouldn't have tried it! I decided to start the vehicle then remove the battery cables. (Was curious if the alt and batt tests were wrong.) The vehicle ran fine without the battery. I then turned the headlights and heater blower on, still ran fine. With the battery disconnected I then hit the throttle. It ran great didn't even sputter! Connected the battery and tried the throttle and it stalled out again. Turns out the battery test given by (a well known auto parts chain) was faulty. Again, Thank you and the others for the advice!! It led me to the problem.
wait, you are saying you were able to idle fine with the battery completely disconnected from the loop???? that is great, but i wouldnt recommend doing that for the simple fact that the computer likes a voltage signal from the battery, and im sure the alternator doesnt like that circuit being opened up
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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+1 on that Sharps!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 04:31 AM
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ok guys thanks, ive checked everything out and after reading a few suggestions i looked into the pcm suggestion and after reading on another forum about it getting hot and needing to be cooled down I tested it. I cooled the pcm when it started again the other day and it worked fine until it warmed up again.... going to get a new pcm tomorrow.,
 
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by shrpshtr325
wait, you are saying you were able to idle fine with the battery completely disconnected from the loop???? that is great, but i wouldnt recommend doing that for the simple fact that the computer likes a voltage signal from the battery, and im sure the alternator doesnt like that circuit being opened up

That is correct. It never stalled or had that massive hesitation. But when I reconnected the battery the problem came right back. Now the battery started the vehicle just fine. The morning I did this, I noticed the voltage gauge rising slowly after the vehicle was running. I understand the possible risk by running it without the battery but I just hoped for the best. But aside from the check engine light being on (from playing with the TPS connector), everything seems to be ok. Have to locate the book so I can reset the light.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by OneQuestion
Have to locate the book so I can reset the light.
Here is a link: Engine Code Index (Check Engine Light?)
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker


Thank you for that link!! Saved me a whole lot of time. Still cannot find the book.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:07 AM
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Book?
 
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