03 durango hard to turn 4.7l
#1
#4
Power steering pumps have two valves built into them. One is a pressure relief valve so when you steer to the end of travel, it does not brake the pump shaft. The other valve is basically a flow divider.
The "flow divider" has two paths for the outlet fluid, one is the controlled flow, the other is the excess flow. The controlled flow is always the same (pretty much) no matter how fast you are turning the pump, and goes to the rack valve. The excess flow changes with engine speed, and is sent right back to the tank.
In other words, I would check out your power steering pump as Hydra stated.
The "flow divider" has two paths for the outlet fluid, one is the controlled flow, the other is the excess flow. The controlled flow is always the same (pretty much) no matter how fast you are turning the pump, and goes to the rack valve. The excess flow changes with engine speed, and is sent right back to the tank.
In other words, I would check out your power steering pump as Hydra stated.
#5
Power steering pumps have two valves built into them. One is a pressure relief valve so when you steer to the end of travel, it does not brake the pump shaft. The other valve is basically a flow divider.
The "flow divider" has two paths for the outlet fluid, one is the controlled flow, the other is the excess flow. The controlled flow is always the same (pretty much) no matter how fast you are turning the pump, and goes to the rack valve. The excess flow changes with engine speed, and is sent right back to the tank.
In other words, I would check out your power steering pump as Hydra stated.
The "flow divider" has two paths for the outlet fluid, one is the controlled flow, the other is the excess flow. The controlled flow is always the same (pretty much) no matter how fast you are turning the pump, and goes to the rack valve. The excess flow changes with engine speed, and is sent right back to the tank.
In other words, I would check out your power steering pump as Hydra stated.
Actually inputted this into the DIY section: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...wers-faqs.html
Last edited by hydrashocker; 04-06-2010 at 12:50 AM.
#6
#7
Just thought I would add to this a little. I know some of you here also own GM vehicles. I had a nasty leak on the 98 and finally ended up replacing all the lines and the pump itself. The pump was a new one with very little run time that I had for my old 95 V6 Camaro. Everything bolted up directly. The pump is clocked slightly different in the resevoir, but it bolted up using the Dodge bolts and lines without a single problem. Only thing I changed was the pulley. It is now tilted to the Driver side about an inch off center but has not proven to be a problem at this point, just a slight touch harder to pour fluid in without a funnel.... BUT hopefully if you do this, you'll only have to refill it once lol, instead of everyday like I was doing.
So if your in a pinch and have a GM with the saginaw pump sittin around or have parts, and need a pump, you may be in luck. I didnt change the pressure valve in the back of the pump and all seems to be 100% perfect. It vents off like it should at the locks, no spitting fluid out of the cap, etc. Just thought I'd add to this post, it may help somebody else later on.
I do recommend doing some research if possible before just throwing it on, as some pumps may have a pressure valve that is too high for the Durango gear box.
****This is for the 5.9, probably the 5.2 also*****
Also, The two ground wires that go to the top inner p/s pump bracket, the nut was froze on mine and wouldnt come apart, I ended up breaking the eyelets off, The bolt wouldnt come all the way out because of the heater hose pipe being in the way, so I pulled the other three bolts, then the top bolt came free with little trouble. I didnt have to open the cooling system.
I then got a copper lug/eyelet, crimp style, and put the two grounds in that to the rear/driver A/C mount bolt. I actually gained a little on the voltage gauge doing this, as well as noticing brighter lights at idle. Now planning to replace/upgrade battery cables, but that is another thread.
So if your in a pinch and have a GM with the saginaw pump sittin around or have parts, and need a pump, you may be in luck. I didnt change the pressure valve in the back of the pump and all seems to be 100% perfect. It vents off like it should at the locks, no spitting fluid out of the cap, etc. Just thought I'd add to this post, it may help somebody else later on.
I do recommend doing some research if possible before just throwing it on, as some pumps may have a pressure valve that is too high for the Durango gear box.
****This is for the 5.9, probably the 5.2 also*****
Also, The two ground wires that go to the top inner p/s pump bracket, the nut was froze on mine and wouldnt come apart, I ended up breaking the eyelets off, The bolt wouldnt come all the way out because of the heater hose pipe being in the way, so I pulled the other three bolts, then the top bolt came free with little trouble. I didnt have to open the cooling system.
I then got a copper lug/eyelet, crimp style, and put the two grounds in that to the rear/driver A/C mount bolt. I actually gained a little on the voltage gauge doing this, as well as noticing brighter lights at idle. Now planning to replace/upgrade battery cables, but that is another thread.
Last edited by oklahomafbody; 03-11-2011 at 02:36 AM.
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#8
#9
The pressure sensor on the PS system on the 4.7 is only there so that if you're in say a parking lot and turning very tight with the engine at a low speed it will rev the engine if the pressure is too high to prevent it from stalling. Not sure why they thought the engine would stall though.