My 03 Durango just stopped running. I had it towed. The next morning it started right up, but only run for around a minute and shut off and wouldn't start. I searched online and everyone was saying the ICV was bad, so I replaced it. It still wont start until I unplug the ICV. However it when I unplug the ICV it will start for about a second and shuts off. Any answers??

 

I've been having the exact same problem as Sasquatch for a couple of years, progressively getting worse. (2001 Durango SLT 4.7L 4x4, Canada) Alarm goes off almost every time we hit the "unlock" button on either of our fob's - regardless of how close we are to vehicle. Today after work the vehicle was completely unresponsive to the fob when tried to unlock vehicle. Panic, lock, unlock on fob AND internal automatic door lock switches completely unresponsive. Also had the "SERVICE 4X4" light up on dash display. Vehicle able to be unlocked/locked with key or manual slide locks.

Tried Hydra's reset protocol (see post #2) and still no response from either fob.

Pulled (and cleaned) negative battery terminal and replaced. Fob's now operational (which triggered alarm when unlocked again)

Did Hydra's reset protocol again and then repeated lock/unlock sequence with fob many times without any alarm issue!

This seemed to have fixed it for me. I'll try to remember to report back after time to verify if it stays corrected.

Sasquatch, it would have been helpful to others (such as me) with the same issue and a courtesy to those that took the time to help you out with your problem to have taken a moment to post one way or the other whether it helped.

Hydra, you rock!

 

To update: The alarm reset didn't solve the honking issue when I press "unlock" on the fob. Happens almost every time I unlock now. Anybody else have success solving this issue?

 

My 03 Dodge Durango airbag light goes off and on while driving. Anyone have an idea as to why this is happening.

 

I replaced the Central Timing Module (CTM) and it resolved all of my above-mentioned issues immediately. Three weeks trouble free to date.

What I've learned:

1) The CTM part# for my Durango was 56045453AG. I was told by my local Dodge dealer that this part# has been superseded by a number of part #'s that all have the same number (56045453) but a different last letter which designates the manufacturer of the part. AK, AJ, AI, AG, AF, AE, AD, AH
The most current part# has a different number (5114191AA) and appears to have gone up [I]significantly[I] in price as well - $680CDN. Nonetheless, I was able to find a couple of used CTM's on ebay with the latest part number and that's what I went with. There was a crap-load of CTM's on ebay in the older part#'s and a lot under $100.

2) YOU HAVE TO REFLASH YOUR KEY FOBS TO MATCH THE NEW CTM YOU'VE INSTALLED! Only the dealer can do this because the CTM controls your alarm and, perhaps, the engine disabler chip in your key - although I'm not certain on the disabler. It cost me $68CDN and took 10min. Call around to different local dealerships because they ranged from $60 to $120 for the same reflash which includes all your fobs. Bring any fobs you have for the vehicle. You really only need to reflash one fob and then can use it to go through the alarm reprogramming procedure at home for the other one(s) but why add the extra work for yourself.

3) If you have a Canadian vehicle (as I have) and you buy a CTM from the U.S. (as I did) then your Daytime Running Lights will no longer work automatically. This is a Canadian vehicle requirement. I assume that I could pay to have the dealership enable the CTM to do that through another reflash. I haven't bothered and just manually turn them on. If I had my wits about me I'd have asked them to include it when they reflashed my fobs.

Because I was uncertain if I'd be able to operate the vehicle after I swapped the CTM's (because I was concerned my fob's weren't going to be compatible until they got reflashed to the new one) I quickly swapped out the CTM in the dealer parking lot just before my appointment. As it happened, it didn't set off the alarm and the vehicle could be started and moved into the shop bay with the old fob/key. However, I didn't lock my door or do anything that would set the alarm after the swap. Be prepared to quickly swap the CTM's by having the cover panel and bottom door carpet trim pieces removed. You should only need a phillips screwdriver but make sure you've pre-loosened the screws holding the CTM module. Might need a hex-driver on a 1/4"drive ratchet to break them loose first.

This turned a $1000+ job (if you add in dealer diagnostic testing to determine the faulty CTM) into a $180 easy home repair. Hopefully this helps the next fella or lovely lady suffering from the same issue(s).

 

cabindwellr, thanks for this post and the followup. Probably the most important thing we each do is to post back answers for others down the road! Much appreciated.

I just purchases an R/T 2001 and the guy told me he pulled the horn fuse because the alarm was going off when he was unlocking it. I thought it was wierd till this morning I went to unlock the truck and the alarm went off a few horn beeps which is pretty loud in the neighborhood.

Can't believe the cost of the unit. I am now thinking of picking up one of the tools the dealer uses so I can bypass having them program it. Still expensive for the CTM.

 

the only thing that seems to fix it is waiting till the alarm times out.

 

Fuel pump?

 

Six year old thread?