Gen 1 BIG Brake Upgrade - Loose Brake Pads?
#1
Gen 1 BIG Brake Upgrade - Loose Brake Pads?
As some have seen under another thread, I've got a 98 Durango 5.9 which I'm "attempting" to complete a Big Brake upgrade on. Ok, I'm not mechanical, but I can research, study and convey - a local shop is doing the work.
Ok... my Frankenstein-of-a-truck is now wearing 03 Spindles and Lower Ball Joints (the latter is another discussion for later), 03 spec Baer Decelarotors and Pads, and 03 spec re-manufactured dual-piston calipers. Here's where the perhaps (I hope!!!) the last hangup is.
The calipers are a floating design, they've got some lateral play so that when the brakes are applied, the piston pushes out, the cradle is pulled in and the inboard and outboard pads are squeezed against the rotor. ::See, I'm not mechanical, but I can understand the functionality.:: Ok, so the issue as is indicated in the thread title is that the inboard pad is loose within the cradle - essentially there's too much play in the caliper itself, so the pad is loose enough that it wants to fall out.
I went to NAPA and they suggested applying some spacers/washers to the caliper slide pin to negate the amount of play. The mechanic is feeling like this is just a Frankenstein project gone awry at this point. And I'm thinking since the spindle, the caliper, the rotor and pads are all '03 spec, AND the hub/bearing is the same part on both a 98 and an 03 (at least according to NAPAs website), that there shouldn't be an issue, or at least it should be something obvious. Maybe the caliper pistons aren't "out" far enough? Maybe there's not enough pressure built up in the brake system to hold the pistons where they are supposed to be? The pads are the right part number according to what I've looked up, but maybe they aren't thick enough or need to be shimmed somehow?
I don't want to jury-rig this together anymore than putting 03 parts on a 98 already is, but this last piece seems like it should NOT be the hangup that brings the project to an unflattering end.
Any thoughts? Opinions? Experience?
Ok... my Frankenstein-of-a-truck is now wearing 03 Spindles and Lower Ball Joints (the latter is another discussion for later), 03 spec Baer Decelarotors and Pads, and 03 spec re-manufactured dual-piston calipers. Here's where the perhaps (I hope!!!) the last hangup is.
The calipers are a floating design, they've got some lateral play so that when the brakes are applied, the piston pushes out, the cradle is pulled in and the inboard and outboard pads are squeezed against the rotor. ::See, I'm not mechanical, but I can understand the functionality.:: Ok, so the issue as is indicated in the thread title is that the inboard pad is loose within the cradle - essentially there's too much play in the caliper itself, so the pad is loose enough that it wants to fall out.
I went to NAPA and they suggested applying some spacers/washers to the caliper slide pin to negate the amount of play. The mechanic is feeling like this is just a Frankenstein project gone awry at this point. And I'm thinking since the spindle, the caliper, the rotor and pads are all '03 spec, AND the hub/bearing is the same part on both a 98 and an 03 (at least according to NAPAs website), that there shouldn't be an issue, or at least it should be something obvious. Maybe the caliper pistons aren't "out" far enough? Maybe there's not enough pressure built up in the brake system to hold the pistons where they are supposed to be? The pads are the right part number according to what I've looked up, but maybe they aren't thick enough or need to be shimmed somehow?
I don't want to jury-rig this together anymore than putting 03 parts on a 98 already is, but this last piece seems like it should NOT be the hangup that brings the project to an unflattering end.
Any thoughts? Opinions? Experience?
#2
is the pad snapping into the cylinder tightly? you might just need some brake quiet/glue stuff that will help it stick, if the brake isnt touching the rotor (i assume you have an 03 rotor on there) then i would expect you just need to step on the brakes a couple times, if it is only one side there is a possibility that your reman'd caliper was not properly reman'd
#3
The consensus at the moment, though won't know until Monday at this point, is that it's just a matter of the brake lines not having been bled/connected/pressurized yet. That once they are, the caliper piston's will push out some and create a more solid fit between the caliper, the pads, and the rotor. Honestly, I'd had that idea early this morning and wish I'd said something, but didn't want to seem presumptuous. The shop came to that conclusion this afternoon, but too late in the day to finish it up, and only the right side is completely back together at this point.
Mechanic said he just wants it to be safe so nothing bad happens - I pointed out that he gets the first test drive. ::snicker::
Mechanic said he just wants it to be safe so nothing bad happens - I pointed out that he gets the first test drive. ::snicker::
#4
LMFAO i agree if the system is not assembled yet then the brake pads/rotor sandwich will have some play in it, it is designed so that the pads will slip over the rotor without as much effort as the brakes that came on your truck took (mine seem to be tight going on with new pads)
i still hope that you got NEW rotors for the front instead of turning a set from a scrap yard
#5
I dropped some coin on a set of Baer cross-drilled and slotted rotors and the corresponding ceramic pads. Compared to stock for a 98, heck, even by newer standards, it should, I hope, now stop like a MF, as long as this finishes up in a positive manner!
#7
Why swap stocker front disk for 2003 front disk? Gain? Yes, but not a lot gained. Most gain is to be had by eliminating the stocker rear drum and go with a disk setup in the rear. THAT is not easy based on to many differences from the other years. That leaves you to the SSBC big brake setup if one can still be found.
If the pad is where it can fall out, it isn't right. I think you need more of the 2003 parts than just the spindles.
Let us know how it works out.
IndyD
If the pad is where it can fall out, it isn't right. I think you need more of the 2003 parts than just the spindles.
Let us know how it works out.
IndyD
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#8
Why swap stocker front disk for 2003 front disk? Gain? Yes, but not a lot gained. Most gain is to be had by eliminating the stocker rear drum and go with a disk setup in the rear. THAT is not easy based on to many differences from the other years. That leaves you to the SSBC big brake setup if one can still be found.
If the pad is where it can fall out, it isn't right. I think you need more of the 2003 parts than just the spindles.
Let us know how it works out.
IndyD
If the pad is where it can fall out, it isn't right. I think you need more of the 2003 parts than just the spindles.
Let us know how it works out.
IndyD
And as far as the spindle, that's just one piece that's 03 - so to are the lower ball joint, the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. It essentially stops being a 98 at the hub/bearing and the upper ball joint.
My goal is to be able to tow a trailer, and the trailer will have electric brakes and be managed by a brake controller in the truck. I just want to make sure that the truck has enough brake to stop everything on it's own if the trailer brakes fail, AND, I'm tired of smoking the front brakes (unloaded and not towing) just driving out of the Yosemite valley with a normal load of camping gear and kids. It's wholly ridiculous that that happens with the stock setup.
#10
OP, this should help get you to where you need to be. Pick the parts that apply to you and Tada!
http://bigdakotabrakes.gotdns.com/brakes.html
HTH,
IndyDurango
http://bigdakotabrakes.gotdns.com/brakes.html
HTH,
IndyDurango
Last edited by IndyDurango; 06-08-2010 at 12:58 AM.