Very nice write up!

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but how would I run a direct feed from the battery to the fan? Would I just use some old wire or is there something else? My e-fan I still non-operational and I have yet to check it.

 

Off, make a power lead and a ground lead, hook one up to power and one to ground then hook up to the fan. it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal on the fan. if you hook it up backwards the fan will just work in reverse. For safety sake put a fuse in the power cable so if you accidently short to ground you don't hurt yourself you'll just blow a fuse. Use a 30-40 amp fuse.

 

What do you all mean when you talk about burping a thermostat?

 

i learned something new i didnt know the e fan stayed on all the time with the a/c on seems dumb to have it on when your doing 65

 

Basically the e-fan is solely for the A/C system when it is not in high temperature mode. It will kick on once it registers a certain temp (215* IIRC, could be off though) but also stays on to keep the A/C exaporative system running as it should be. There is no lead at all that connects the e-fan to any of the speed sensors so basically it doesn't know if you're stopped in traffic or going down the highway with the wind at your nose.

You don't burp a thermostat you burp the cooling system. Basically what this does is ensure that there is nothing but coolant under pressure and no air is running thru your system that can cause overheating and issues down the road.

Burping the system should be done anytime you remove any of the hoses, repair a leak, or flush the system. To burp the system you simply remove the top radiator cap with the engine cold and off, start the engine and poor coolant in as needed and it will remove air from the system.

 

thanks WhiteWidow00

 

Uhhhh. nope. That is fine for the 5.XL setups HOWEVER there is a defined process to properly burping the 4.7l. Do it wrong, overheat.

IndyDurango

 

yup indy is correct the 4.7 has its own bleed procedure involving the bleeder screw in the top

 

Here ya go:


STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE

CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system
can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.

(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the
radiator upper hose inlet housing. Fill system
using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begains
coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and
install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the
reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.

(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.

(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.

(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary.
Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary
coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.


The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only Mopart Antifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a
freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it loses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.