I thought that too, but, I did the 2nd charge session and I noticed that the air temp wasn't cold based on the 2 can charge. The pressures remained the same(low) until I decided to add freon till the pressures indicated it was properly charged. Now the pressures came just under spec and the discharge temperature stayed the same 58 f. Later in the day the pressures back up to what the spec called for. It was 5 degrees hotter out so I am sure that caused that. I am just curious about why it took so much freon. If it loses freon over the next few days, I will eat my hat. But, as it stands, it is working like it wants a bit more. I just can't bring myself to do it. Maybe it really should have more pag. That is the only thing I can think that might explain the need for more freon. To take up the space the oil should have occupied. Thanks for the reply. I may need to eat a hat!

 

I don't think the volume of the oil is very significant compared to the rest of the system. One thing I experienced when replacing my compressor was that even though all the instructions, including the tag on the compressor, said it didn't have oil in it and would need filled. Thankfully I checked before installing it because it had the full systems worth of oil in it already. I've heard too much oil can effect the performance. Either way, with every component of my ac​​​​​ replaced over the past few years, the best I can get is low-mid 60 degree temps when it's 85-90 degrees out. When it's 100 I get 70 from the vents.

 

I really appreciate your input on this! I have charged quite a few systems and this one really messed with my head. I am still fearful that I over charged this system. I have been reading that this first generation durango has a horrible ac system. The problem is, I had a very good system before it started leaking. The irony of this is, I am taking the dash apart again because the mix door cable came loose and one of the vacuum motors is leaking. IF YOU TEAR YOUR DASH APART, REPLACE ALL VACUUM MOTORS AND COILS. I violated my own rule and I am paying the price.
thanks again for your input!

 

My wife's car smells like urine after 300 miles while using the AC, ever come across this?

 

​​​​​ not sure about why she smells urine. One problem that seems to be extremely prevalent in the 1998-2004 dodge truck series, is a condensation leak at the fire wall that floods the passenger floorboard. If you drove for 3 hours, I would bet that the floor is wet and the AC inlet port is picking up the nasty mildew smell from the wet carpet. The air inlet is right over the passenger floorboard.
other than that, there is a limited amount of smells that can come from the discharge vents: Freon has a sweet smell with a slight etholine glycol smell from the Pag oil that circulates in the AC system. If your AC is working, it is unlikely that is what you are smelling. Another source of the smell comes from a leaking heater core. That would smell of etholine glycol in the antifreeze.
A hot or failing blower motor will also create a bitter-sweet, burning-electrical or a burning-plastic smell.
I am gonna bet it's a soaking wet carpet.

 

Hey all, got another A/C issue. This is a very long thread to try and figure out a solution so I figured I'd just ask my question.

I have a 99 5.2. A few days ago I had the A/C on. It was blowing cool, but not cold. So I went to the local auto store and got a 12oz can of refrigerant. I put it in but I was getting a 0 psi reading from the gauge (not a pro gauge, just the ones that come with those store bought bottles). After that the A/C was blowing ambient temp. Not even cool. So I added another 12oz. Still the same. I noticed that my clutch is engaging and disengaging literally every second or two. On, off, on, off.

I really don't even know where to begin. I don't want to take it to the shop at this point, without at least knowledge of what the problem may be, or they'll try and get me for a whole system replacement. I know there are a million things it could be that have gone wrong with the system, so I will try and give as much info as possible.

The clutch engages / disengages every second, regardless of what position the HVAC is set to (unless it is completely off).
I checked the belt and its not slipping.
My last fill of R-134a read 32psi, but was jumping from that to 0psi. Could be a faulty gauge.
The line coming off the compressor is warm to hot.
The line to the condenser is cool to cold.
There is absolutely no drainage under the car.
I have been fighting with a mystery oil leak. Is it possible something got clogged?
I checked all fuses and they were all good. I don't know how to check the relay under the hood to know if it is bad.

Thanks for any help. I'm in NY and we are just entering a heat wave today, with it hitting high 90's tomorrow. I would LOVE this to be a simple fix, but nothing is simple with this truck.

Thanks,
Derek

 

if you charged it without a functioning gauge you could very easily have overfilled the system, which would cause high pressures, the system sees these pressures and disengages the compressor.

if i were you i would get a set of gauges on it and see if i could determin what the pressures are at, and go from there.

if thats not an option then you will have to vacuum the system down and recharge to the correct amount (usually by weight) and check the pressures again.

you added 2 12 oz cans or 24 ozs of refrigerant the single systems hold 1.75lbs (28oz) and the dual systems hold 2.44lbs (39 oz)

based on this information i honestly think you way overcharged the system, but there is a chart on the first post of this thread that has an approximate static pressure in the system when it is off, go check it.

 

The really short answer is that you will rarely get a discharge temp of below 60f. This is a common problem with these years. I went through the exact issue with a completely new system. Your system is over charged. If you are able to get a thermometer to check discharge temp, you will see that it won't get any cooler than this. Remove freon till you get this temp. Sorry for the bad news.

 

 

I am not familiar with that system at all. I would venture to guess that there is a control damper problem in the dash. I would check to see if you have any vacuum leaks in the tubing going in from the engine compartment side. Some of those in line check valves go bad and cause those vacuum controllers to close when you step on the gas. Also check behind the control **** on the dash to see if a hose has come off or if there are any leaks at the **** or behind it.