Hey guys thanks for the forum. Here is one for you. At idle, when my compressor kicks on, it sounds like running water (or gurgling) going up to my rear a/c unit (99 Durango). I have charged the system based on the recomendations on the can of 134a and the chart on this thread. My guess is that i am still low on coolant, but my system build to much pressure and blew out the pressure valve on my compressor (some aftermarket compressor that was put on a couple of months before i bought the vehicle). Just courious as to your thoughts before i take it to the shop. Thanks for your time and help.

 

I have a 2000 Durango SLT and I'm working on replacing the blower motor, evaporator and heater core...what a job!! I just reinstalled the HVAC box and I don't recollect disconnecting the evaporator drain tube when I removed the box and when I installed the box I forgot to look for the drain tube. My question is...where does the drain tube hook-up to the HVAC box? I hate to have to pull the box and refrigerant lines again, but it's better than having to pull the dash and steering again.

Thanks for your help!

 

Just following up from my original post, which was one of the ones quoted on the original post.

I finally had the compressor and drier replaced. While it did fix the idling hot air issue, for some reason it doesn't seem to be blasting cold air.

The air feels cold putting my hand up near the vents, but both idling and driving it doesn't seem like its really blasting cold air. I don't know how to explain it. The air just doesn't seem like its driving out the hot air.

It does cool, but it seems I have to keep it on full blast to keep it cool. Again, not sure, if I can explain it and compare it to how it was.

So maybe I have a new problem. Or maybe I should have replaced the evaporator also? Then again the mechanic could have overlooked something.

 

Ran across some pics I took a little while back while fixing the AC vaccum line for the air flow issue. For the next guy ( or gal) having issues with losing your air flow, The line under the hood runs directly underneath your heater hoses. Kind of a pain to get to, especially if the engine is warm/hot. Mine broke half way off so would work intermittently, right at the little block where it goes through the firewall. Probably where all of them break. On the interior side of the firewall, directly above your gas pedal, you'll see a vaccum line running right under the HVAC box with a screw holding the little block in place. Mine had a rubber fitting connecting the inside vaccum line to the block, I removed the line, the screw and cut the little ears off the block holding it in and pushed it through the firewall, I then took the outside line and put it through the hole that is now under your heater hoses. The line is plenty long enough to push through and plug right in to the rubber connector on the other vaccum line. I then just siliconed the hole in the firewall instead of trying to make the block work.

It is a lot more flexible setup this way, which should be better for the hoses life. I realize the silicone sealing is a little redneckish way of fixing it but believe its the best solution at this point. I had bought a bunch of vaccum connectors and splices, etc and just couldnt get the right sizes so thats what brought on the direct connection and silicone. You will have to about sit on your head to see it under the dash. I rolled the driver window all the way down and propped one leg up through the door which made it a little easier on my back lol. You'll need a small flashlight, a tube of black (high temp) silicone, a small sharp knife, and some rags to clean the rtv off your finger. (you will probably have to use your finger to push the silicone up into the hole). There isnt much room to work with but it is doable.

If you took time and bought a better selection of vaccum fittings, you could probaby drill out the little block and put it back in. I just didnt have the patience to keep screwing with it at the time. Will try to upload a couple pics of the block so you know more what your looking for.









I tried to resize these stupid things but this is all I got, so sorry for the huge pics, I may resize them on my computer and then reupload them to photobucket instead of trying to use PB crappy tools.

 

2003 durango AC Problems

My first question is where is the evaparator core thermostat?

I have a 2003 Durango SLT Plus 5.9 Lt with many of the same AC problems as everyone else. What I need is some step by step advice based on the information I have listed below.
LOCATION PROBLEMS
1. I am currently living in Qatar and the cost of parts and dealer work is very expensive. For instance a new AC compressor is about $1300 US fitted.
2. I can get some parts there, like relays etc. which aren’t too expensive otherwise I have to order through E-Bay which takes about 10 days.
3. Non – Dealer mechanics who know about these cars are few and far between and if anything is too hard they just leave it.
4. The temps here are on average 102 – 115 for 6 months of the year
AC PROBLEMS
1. The air is just not very cold in either the front nor the back
2. The air will only blow from the dash vents, I have no windscreen or feet in any combination, on either recirculated air or outside air.
3. It sounds as though there is a small hurricane in the dash in relation to the air volume coming from the vents.
4. I have no heat, (this is not a real issue, just thought I should mention it)
NOTES
1. I have replaced the AC Compressor & Dryer
2. I have replaced the Clutch Fan & Thermatic Fan & Relay
3. I have wrapped the lines in Neoprene and heat shield tape.
4. I have had the gas checked again and again.
5. When I change the air from recirculated to outside air, there is a noticeable change in the air volume and also the noise of the fan. I also noticed that if I change to outside air a lot of dust comes into the car. This indicates to me that the door for this is working.
QUESTIONS
1. What else can I check and replace without pulling the dash down, ie; relay’s – expansion valves – fuses etc?
2. I have heard that the heater core feeds are very close to the plastic air ducts, and can cause them to heat up. Does blocking the heater core feed help?
3. Is there only one blend door or are there a number for the various settings, ie; windscreen, feet, face?
4. How likely is it that the evaporator core is the problem.
5. What is the basic problem with the system? Is it the size of the compressor? The size of the Evaporator core? The size of the ac radiator? or combinations.
Anyway I hope someone can help me with this as I currently can’t drive or sell the vehicle, summer is just starting so the vehicle will just sit until xmas.

 

for the mediocre a/c temperature, have you checked the electric fan in the radiator? also is the condenser by the radiator clean? nothing clogged up in there? if you bypass the heater core it may help if the blend door is jamming and not sealing it off correctly, and its not hard to do so that if you dont ever need heat i would go ahead and bypass it(hook the hoses for it going into the dash together)

the lack of air direction would point me to a bad actuator, they should be accessible from one of the footwells, i suggest downloading the PDF service manual for the 2002 durango from the FAQ thread in the stickies (its close enough that it will work for your purposes) and checking out the actuators

 

Thanks Shrpshtr325

I got up under the dash and found that one of the actuator for the face/feet/windscreen was unplugged. I plugged them in and all vents are now working and the hurricane noise has dulled down. I wonder why it was unplugged???. I will do some road tests over the next few days. I will also bypass the heater core and give the condensor a good clean. I have also ordered new expansion vlaves from the states, once they arrive I will install them and check the gas based on some of the stats from this forum. Thanks for the help, I will report back. By the way the durango is awesome out here in the desert, pretty much ploughs throiugh the dunes ahead of all the jap trucks and goes places where they get stuck.

 

np man, glad i could help

 

I just got on 2003 durango rt with 82k on it and it also had crappy ac at idle..
This forum is great, hope it something simple, will check bledn doors first..it almost blows warm at idle but cool when driving

 

that sounds to me like your electric fan isnt coming on w/ the a/c, that would be the first place i would check