1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Idle flucuations help

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  #11  
Old 07-13-2010, 02:17 PM
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Thanks HS ans shrpshtr.... I did search the threads but didn't search under throttle bodies.

David
 
  #12  
Old 07-14-2010, 01:03 AM
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There was one for the 4.7L but it got lost when the DIY thread was lost. Keep looking!
 
  #13  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:27 AM
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Yesterday I did the treatment on my '02 4.7L...... TPS, IAC, PCV, and TB cleansing. Per this forums instructions, I first removed the IAC to clean it. Well, when the plunger area of the IAC spit out small pieces of white plastic from the inside, when I was spraying the cleaner in it, I made the call to replace it. Sadly, I didn't buy the IAC intially because AZone had two part numbers listed for an '02 4.7L, both similar in price. I said to myself that I would service the IAC first to see if that would fix it. Of course that made for two trips to the parts house, grrrrrrrrrr. Got the part number off the OEM part and back to the store 12 miles away!!!

Had a friend with me. He was laughing at me. Why are you taking off the throttle body he asked comically. I answered because Shrpshter and HydraShocker told me to, and then to clean it. I'm SO glad I did. There was so much filmy residue and deposits inside the TB it wasn't funny. Yes a can of carb cleaner broke some of it loose but I needed a tooth brush to really get it clean. The orifice where the IAC operates was especially gunked up. It has to be a good thing getting it clean and the effort worth it.

The TPS is/was straight forward but the PCV wasn't. You can't really get to the darn thing unless you remove the air box. Figured that removal out finally! Those are not bolts or screws holding it down. Some kind of friction whatever holders. 10 minutes trying to unscrew something with no threads and I was ready to beat a red headed stepchild or stray dog, if I could find one. THANKS FOR WARNING ME GUYS!!! Just pull up smartly, I finally figured out, and the box releases. The valve itself released with a SNAP and Oh Crap I thought I broke it inside the filler tube.... Thankfully it didn't and the 'snap' was because the gunk had glued the valve in. With a little persuasion and lube, the new one finally seated in.

The final verdict is I have a smooth running vehicle again. Not sure which part stopped the symptoms, or if they all contributed. My wife is happy so it is definately worth it!

Thanks for the Forum.

David
 
  #14  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:34 PM
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I've cleaned my IAC twice. Both times it idles fine, but it goes back wacky as the days go by. Ordered one from Rock Auto for ~$35.
 
  #15  
Old 07-17-2010, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mcstealth
Yesterday I did the treatment on my '02 4.7L...... TPS, IAC, PCV, and TB cleansing. Per this forums instructions, I first removed the IAC to clean it. Well, when the plunger area of the IAC spit out small pieces of white plastic from the inside, when I was spraying the cleaner in it, I made the call to replace it. Sadly, I didn't buy the IAC intially because AZone had two part numbers listed for an '02 4.7L, both similar in price. I said to myself that I would service the IAC first to see if that would fix it. Of course that made for two trips to the parts house, grrrrrrrrrr. Got the part number off the OEM part and back to the store 12 miles away!!!

Had a friend with me. He was laughing at me. Why are you taking off the throttle body he asked comically. I answered because Shrpshter and HydraShocker told me to, and then to clean it. I'm SO glad I did. There was so much filmy residue and deposits inside the TB it wasn't funny. Yes a can of carb cleaner broke some of it loose but I needed a tooth brush to really get it clean. The orifice where the IAC operates was especially gunked up. It has to be a good thing getting it clean and the effort worth it.

The TPS is/was straight forward but the PCV wasn't. You can't really get to the darn thing unless you remove the air box. Figured that removal out finally! Those are not bolts or screws holding it down. Some kind of friction whatever holders. 10 minutes trying to unscrew something with no threads and I was ready to beat a red headed stepchild or stray dog, if I could find one. THANKS FOR WARNING ME GUYS!!! Just pull up smartly, I finally figured out, and the box releases. The valve itself released with a SNAP and Oh Crap I thought I broke it inside the filler tube.... Thankfully it didn't and the 'snap' was because the gunk had glued the valve in. With a little persuasion and lube, the new one finally seated in.

The final verdict is I have a smooth running vehicle again. Not sure which part stopped the symptoms, or if they all contributed. My wife is happy so it is definately worth it!

Thanks for the Forum.

David
Well we are happy to have helped you!


Glad to see another happy Durango owner!......
 
  #16  
Old 07-17-2010, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader
I've cleaned my IAC twice. Both times it idles fine, but it goes back wacky as the days go by. Ordered one from Rock Auto for ~$35.
Being that is half the price of AZone, good job. Paid $73 for mine just yesterday. The TPS was $33, Gasket was $5.

When It comes to the gasket, It is rubber/silicone and is a groove style that I think can be reused. $5 is cheap enough for a new one but if money was a big issue, you could probably get away with not replacing.
 
  #17  
Old 07-17-2010, 12:48 PM
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Mine is getting the same thing, but no codes. I am expecting if it is the TPS than it should throw a code, but maybe not. When I get back I will r/r the TPS first, since is its the cheaper one of the two...I think that with my kind of mileage (120K) that a valve is more likey to fail than the sensor but the sensor is cheaper.

What to do, it is minor surging now and actually only about a 200 rpm surge with a/c on and 400 rpm with a/c off... not a major surge but over time the fuel will add up.
 
  #18  
Old 07-17-2010, 09:00 PM
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When the rig has a TPS problem it will stumble at idle or when the throttle is opened. The TPS is telling the PCM that the butterfly is in one position when it's not, hence the PCM adding or subtracting fuel when the butterfly is in a certain position that doesn't equal the correct a/f ratio. This is what causes the stumble.

When a vehicle has bad IAC, the rig will be surging up and down smoothly. The IAC acts as a butterfly AND a TPS in a way. The PCM tells the IAC to open and hold to a certain idle due to engine temp or electrical load. The IAC's servo motor has gotten weak and can't stop in the desired position causing the a fight between the IAC and the PCM.

To add and confuse, bad O2's can cause the above too.
 
  #19  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:27 PM
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Replaced my IAC and everything has been fine since. It tries to idle at ~550 rpm which feels a little low, but all seems well. No more up and down when I go to park.
 
  #20  
Old 08-05-2010, 10:12 PM
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500 rpms is normal idle on a warm engine with A/C off (mine idles dead on the 500 rpm mark most of the time)
 


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