No offense but you obviously have no idea what your talking about!


First off, they use the incorrect fluid!
Second, they use the incorrect pressures cause they are to lazy to set the machines!
Third,They blow the **** the filter has filtered out into the system cause the filter isn't set up for forced pressures!
Forth, they don't replace the filter!
Fifth, they don't adjust the adjustments if needed!
Sixth, they can't see issues that might have a problem!
Seventh, They can't clean the magnet off!


You know what I'm done there! You have no idea what your talking about, (no offense). Stop listening to what people and signs tell you and start listening to a professional! Besides, anyone try's to sell you a trany flush, run for the hills!

That is dry fill only not pan and filter drop only. Now if purging the system of fluid the yes at least that (14 quarts).

1. Only use ATF+4 fluid in that transmission! If anyone tells you differently then tell them to talk to me and I'll set em straight!

2. You can pick it up at your local parts store. Valvoline sells a ATF+4 Full Synthetic or go Dealership ATF+4. Other than that only use ATF+4 because it it says that on the bottle it MUST comply to Chrysler standards and they are subjected to testing by Chrysler. Valvoline ATF+4 is a Hydro-Cracked Fully Synthetic base but it's better than a conventional.


As for you pan since you have never dropped one before. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgGW5ty_QmI

Now these instructions are off a little so let me help you.

1. There is a magnet in the pan. Make sure you clean it off and clean under it and repace the magnet.


2. Clean the trans pan with brake or carburetor cleaner sprayed on after you have removed all fluids including the pan gasket surface. The pan gasket surface should be a rubber gasket that can be reused however let me instruct you to use a new rubber gasket if it is over 80,000 (or is not pliable) miles if never dropped. Simply clean the rubber gasket good and put a little wheel grease on it to wettin it and re-install (do not use excessive amounts!).

In this video the user is using a rubber gasket with silicone and do NOT use silicone with a rubber gasket! Only use RTV silicone with a cork gasket!

If it's cork it is not OEM. Clean the cork gasket off without gouging the surfaces and use a rubber gasket.....IMHO

Now remember that on the 45RFE there is 2 filters! One is a flat filter and one is a screw on! There is no adjustment on this transmission! Replace filters and replace trans filter as instructed.

Now replace 6 quarts of ATF+4 fluid and check for leaks between quarts. Start and check fluid.

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmission has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same conditions
which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mistaken
for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P (PARK)
and N (NEUTRAL) positions. Place the selector lever
in P (PARK) to be sure that the fluid level check is
accurate. The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground. At normal operating temperature
(approximately 82 C. or 180 F.), the fluid level is correct
if it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on
the oil level indicator. The fluid level will be approximately
at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at
70° F fluid temperature.
NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at normal
operating temperature before performing this
procedure.
(1) Start engine and apply parking brake.
(2) Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approximately
2 seconds.
(3) Shift the transmission into REVERSE for
approximately 2 seconds.
(4) Shift the transmission into PARK.
(5) Hook up DRBt scan tool and select transmission.
(6) Select sensors.
(7) Read the transmission temperature value.
(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the
chart. (Fig. 56)
(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the
dipstick according to the chart.
NOTE: After adding any fluid to the transmission,
wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully
drain from the fill tube into the transmission before
rechecking the fluid level.
(10) Check transmission for leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID AND FILTER
REPLACEMENT
For proper service intervals (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
- DESCRIPTION).
DN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 45RFE 21 - 411
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)
REMOVAL
(1) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(2) Place a large diameter shallow drain pan
beneath the transmission pan.
(3) Remove bolts holding front and sides of pan to
transmission.
(4) Loosen bolts holding rear of pan to transmission.
(5) Slowly separate front of pan away from transmission
allowing the fluid to drain into drain pan.
(6) Hold up pan and remove remaining bolts holding
pan to transmission.
(7) While holding pan level, lower pan away from
transmission.
(8) Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.
(9) Remove screw holding filter to valve body (Fig.
57).
(10) Separate filter from valve body and oil pump
and pour fluid in filter into drain pan.
(11) Remove and discard the oil filter seal from the
bottom of the oil pump.
(12) If replacing the cooler return filter, use Oil
Filter Wrench 8321 to remove the filter from the
transmission.
(13) Dispose of used trans fluid and filter(s) properly.
INSPECTION
Inspect bottom of pan and magnet for excessive
amounts of metal. A light coating of clutch material
on the bottom of the pan does not indicate a problem
unless accompanied by a slipping condition or shift
Fig. 56 Transmission Fluid Temperature Chart
Fig. 57 Transmission Filters - 4X4 Shown
1 - PRIMARY OIL FILTER
2 - COOLER RETURN FILTER
3 - COOLER RETURN FILTER BYPASS VALVE
4 - VALVE BODY
21 - 412 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 45RFE DN
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)
lag. If fluid and pan are contaminated with excessive
amounts of debris, refer to the diagnosis section of
this group.
CLEANING
(1) Using a suitable solvent, clean pan and magnet.
(2) Using a suitable gasket scraper, clean original
sealing material from surface of transmission case
and the transmission pan.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new primary oil filter seal in the oil
pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore with the
butt end of a hammer, or other suitable tool.
CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully
installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT
install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to
install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to
the transmission will result.
(2) Place replacement filter in position on valve
body and into the oil pump.
(3) Install screw to hold filter to valve body (Fig.
57). Tighten screw to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install new cooler return filter onto the transmission,
if necessary. Torque the filter to 14.12 N·m
(125 in.lbs.).
(5) Place bead of Mopart RTV sealant onto the
transmission case sealing surface.
(6) Place pan in position on transmission.
(7) Install bolts to hold pan to transmission.
Tighten bolts to 11.8 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and fill transmission with
Mopart ATF +4, type 9602 fluid.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TRANSMISSION
FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid
change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
(1) Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in
transmission fill tube.
(2) Add following initial quantity of Mopart ATF
+4 to transmission:
(a) If only fluid and filter were changed, add 10
pints (5 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
(b) If transmission was completely overhauled,
torque converter was replaced or drained, and
cooler was flushed, add 24 pints (12 quarts) of
ATF +4 to transmission.
(3) Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC -
45RFE/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE) and
adjust as required.

 

Bud I've been doing this for over 30 years. Today's exchangers, as stated use the pump of the transmission to exchange the fluid.
Plus, how can you say "they" don't use the correct fluid. Well then don't go see "them". See someone who know's what they are doing. I've NEVER ran into anyone that had an exchanger that didn't know how to use it properly. Seems as if you have so stay away from "them".

 

OMG do I have to take you to school.........


Dude,

They don't use the correct fluid because of the cost factor. You and every other tech uses a Multi-Vehicle transmission fluid at < $1 per quart versus that of $4 per quart. If you read the MSDS sheets of these fluids you would know that they state that they "can be used as top off" however they are not rated for use and that there is a fact. Also they are not tested by Chrysler! Also you do not change your prices accordingly to the use of such fluids in Chrysler vehicle just as every other shop.

Second, I don't care if you have been doing the same stuff for 100 years, the fact of the matter is if you condone a transmission flush and blowing pieces and parts larger than 20 microns through the transmission, when the filter is built to filter them out, then you my friend are part of the problem.

Second people are plain LAZY and you know it. You might be different and I give you credit for that (maybe) but again please read the above statement.

Like I said, this is my opinion and it is backed by fact in many threads here.

 

^^You must be a kid?

 

Nope, 34 years old and been techin and engeneerin sense I was 10. I have been around the block many times and done my homework BEFORE I open my mouth.


Sorry to have busted your bubble!

 

Yup, it's busted I feel like crap and I'll never post on the web again. LMAO

 

hydrashocker thanks for the detailed instructions and the video!!! I got a little backed up this weekend but am going to do the change tomorrow. The video def helps, I should have thought to search for jeep transmission since there are the same.

I will let everyone knows how it goes!
thanks again fellas!

 

Good luck dude!

 

Damn luck. I snapped one of the bolts when I reinstalled the pan. The worst part is I was using a torque wrench set to 8nm which is not the full 11nm as per the book. I took the truck for a short 10 min drive and then came back home and saw that it was leaking a bit in that area.

I should have asked how long am I suppose to wait for the RTV to cure? I only gave it 20 minutes.

My dad said I am going to have to use a screw extractor?

 

Guys I forgot to mention after I got back from my drive I checked the transmission fluid. The book said to add quarts if your just changing the filters and dropping the pan. Now I put the truck in park and pulled out the dip stick. It was quarter an inch above the second cold dot. I then cleaned the stick and put it back in and gave is 5 seconds and pulled it back out. Barely any oil on the stick which was wierd (With oil theres always oil as soon as you pull it out). So I then gave it about 30 seconds and then pulled it out. At that point it was back quarter inch above the second "cold hole".

Anyone know why the stick going in and out wouldn't mark the dip stick correctly right away?