Durango 2000 4.7 Transmission Type & Fluid Recommendation
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
Guys I forgot to mention after I got back from my drive I checked the transmission fluid. The book said to add quarts if your just changing the filters and dropping the pan. Now I put the truck in park and pulled out the dip stick. It was quarter an inch above the second cold dot. I then cleaned the stick and put it back in and gave is 5 seconds and pulled it back out. Barely any oil on the stick which was wierd (With oil theres always oil as soon as you pull it out). So I then gave it about 30 seconds and then pulled it out. At that point it was back quarter inch above the second "cold hole".
Anyone know why the stick going in and out wouldn't mark the dip stick correctly right away?
Anyone know why the stick going in and out wouldn't mark the dip stick correctly right away?
THE ULTI-MOD
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,797
Likes: 36
From: Union NJ
yea i agree with hyrda, needs to be checked with the trans warm and the engine running with the trans in neutral (set the e-brake) and then you will see the correct level
(btw operating temp on the trans is achieved after driving 12-15 miles iirc from the manual)
(btw operating temp on the trans is achieved after driving 12-15 miles iirc from the manual)
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 221
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Hi everyone, I was away for a week just got back into the truck today and drove down to the gym about 10 minute or so away. Parked the truck (engine running), shifted through all gears for about a second, then went to check the fluid. First pull wipes the dipstick clean then reinserted for about 2 seconds and pulled it out. Nothing on the the stick. So I wiped it clean and reinserted this time I gave it 10 seconds and the the fluid was upto the 2nd cold peg hole but it wasn't like entirely on the stick. So then again did the same thing wiped and put the stick back in gave it 10 seconds and pulled it out. Fluid was partially on the stick again around the second peg. I saw the stick under the pan and where it sticks out. I just figure out why the heck its flaky. I don't want to over add tranny fluid because of the whole foam issue.
I added 5 qts as the book said but maybe I should add another half to see if the reading stabilizes? I am assuming the the engine temperature is not related to to the tranny temp. Probably only way to get that would be to hook up and odb.
I added 5 qts as the book said but maybe I should add another half to see if the reading stabilizes? I am assuming the the engine temperature is not related to to the tranny temp. Probably only way to get that would be to hook up and odb.
Also if you want mopar stuff without the mopar price check this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-JE...fd5a47&vxp=mtr
Both filters with the mopar RTV
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-JE...fd5a47&vxp=mtr
Both filters with the mopar RTV
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield
Hydra
OMG do I have to take you to school.........
Dude,
They don't use the correct fluid because of the cost factor. You and every other tech uses a Multi-Vehicle transmission fluid at < $1 per quart versus that of $4 per quart. If you read the MSDS sheets of these fluids you would know that they state that they "can be used as top off" however they are not rated for use and that there is a fact. Also they are not tested by Chrysler! Also you do not change your prices accordingly to the use of such fluids in Chrysler vehicle just as every other shop.
Second, I don't care if you have been doing the same stuff for 100 years, the fact of the matter is if you condone a transmission flush and blowing pieces and parts larger than 20 microns through the transmission, when the filter is built to filter them out, then you my friend are part of the problem.
Second people are plain LAZY and you know it. You might be different and I give you credit for that (maybe) but again please read the above statement.
Like I said, this is my opinion and it is backed by fact in many threads here.
Dude,
They don't use the correct fluid because of the cost factor. You and every other tech uses a Multi-Vehicle transmission fluid at < $1 per quart versus that of $4 per quart. If you read the MSDS sheets of these fluids you would know that they state that they "can be used as top off" however they are not rated for use and that there is a fact. Also they are not tested by Chrysler! Also you do not change your prices accordingly to the use of such fluids in Chrysler vehicle just as every other shop.
Second, I don't care if you have been doing the same stuff for 100 years, the fact of the matter is if you condone a transmission flush and blowing pieces and parts larger than 20 microns through the transmission, when the filter is built to filter them out, then you my friend are part of the problem.
Second people are plain LAZY and you know it. You might be different and I give you credit for that (maybe) but again please read the above statement.
Like I said, this is my opinion and it is backed by fact in many threads here.
I just rebuilt my 4.7 to a 4.8L in a 2000 durango SLT 4X4. The trans was fine. I did a filter and gasket change vehicle has 140k unknown miles had busted head due to chain...
installed now i have 0733 and 0731 1st and 3rd output incorrect codes. i did not add the fluid to trans on install I instructed "friend" to put in 5qts think he added 6.
what do you think I should do.
Drain and refill and check?
Replace input and output sensors?
Both?
many thanks and id like to pick your mind in a idea. Or Nick from airraid.
Want to come fluch this trans heard its good to do with a 120 compressor? Jk