1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

my new 99 5.9L.. long crank before start..

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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
Why would you come to a low compression issue? He didn't say anything about a engine stumble or anything of that matter?
As you know an engine can have a ring issue needing a few cycles too build up enough compression to start it. Doesn't have to be so low of compression where the engine stumbles. It will run rather smoothly just slightly under powered. His sounds classic where it will start right after shut down, but not after sitting for a while.

If he cycles the key say 5 times to get the fuel psi up then it starts right up, fuel psi.

If he sprays starting fluid in the TB and it starts right up, fuel psi.

If jumper cables are used and the same occurs, engine compression likely. Comp test is the only way to be certain.

P.S. A weak starter could cause this too.
 

Last edited by Fox Fader; Jul 27, 2010 at 12:10 AM.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader
As you know an engine can have a ring issue needing a few cycles too build up enough compression to start it. Doesn't have to be so low of compression where the engine stumbles. It will run rather smoothly just slightly under powered. His sounds classic where it will start right after shut down, but not after sitting for a while.

If he cycles the key say 5 times to get the fuel psi up then it starts right up, fuel psi.

If he sprays starting fluid in the TB and it starts right up, fuel psi.

If jumper cables are used and the same occurs, engine compression likely. Comp test is the only way to be certain.

P.S. A weak starter could cause this too.

fox - jumper cable on the 1st crank of the day? its something i could attempt easily.. it would be an easier & cheaper alternative then a fuel pump..


if this does infact turn out to be a fuel pump, are there any specialty tools needed for the process?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader
As you know an engine can have a ring issue needing a few cycles too build up enough compression to start it. Doesn't have to be so low of compression where the engine stumbles. It will run rather smoothly just slightly under powered. His sounds classic where it will start right after shut down, but not after sitting for a while.

If he cycles the key say 5 times to get the fuel psi up then it starts right up, fuel psi.

If he sprays starting fluid in the TB and it starts right up, fuel psi.

If jumper cables are used and the same occurs, engine compression likely. Comp test is the only way to be certain.

P.S. A weak starter could cause this too.
So let me break your explanation down to laymons terms.

You are talking about friction to the cylinder walls from the piston moving up and down to raise enough heat to cause the rings to expand causing the piston to cylinder seal to be better causing upped compression and a prolonged start right?

OMG.......Let's get back to reality!


The member stated this:
i took the durango to my local mechanic who does most of my work.. he hooked up a pressure guage to the fuel rail on the engine itself, started it up, turned it off and watched the pressure plummit.
This right there is text book fuel pump check valve period. Engine compression has nothing to do with fuel pressure immediate plummit period!

I have no idea how you came up with this idea other than pulling straws out of a hat of hopeful ideas after you have trial and errored yourself out of ideas. The thing here is text book and in the dang Service Manual to boot. Now a complete failure will allow fuel to flow back very fast. A slow failing one would slowly allow the fuel to bleed back. Now I commend you for your idea, but I think it is the most far fetched idea out of the box I have ever seen. The issue here is that upon fuel pressure cut off the pressure immediately falls and this is the first very definitive issue. I will included even more supporting documentation to back myself up:

FUEL PRESSURE LEAK DOWN TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump
Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test.
Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump
outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel
flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply
line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational.
It is also used to keep the fuel supply line
full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After
the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop
to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will
remain in fuel supply line between the check valve
and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has
dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle
(engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric
fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should
immediately (1–2 seconds) rise to specification.
Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a
hot engine that has been shut down for a short
period of time may be caused by:
. Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s).
. Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in
the fuel pump module.
Note: A quick loss of pressure usually indicates a
defective check valve in the filter/regulator. A slow
loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check
valve in the electric fuel pump.
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Jul 27, 2010 at 10:27 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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Ok, I see it's clear you don't understand low compression. No problem, OP will get it figured out.
 

Last edited by Fox Fader; Jul 28, 2010 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader
Ok, I see it's clear you don't understand low compression. No problem, OP will get it figured out.

It's clear you don't understand what your doing! You know what, I gave you the benefit of the doubt and even stated this in my post:
Now I commend you for your idea
but you obviously can't control your attitude nor your ignorance, so why don't you find your way back off the forum just the way you found yourself here in the first place.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:04 AM
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Uhhh ohhhh.

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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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You are right, I don't. LMAO
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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Ya know what, I don't understand your ignorance. In a lot of your posts you state things that are WAY out of this world and occasionally you land on planet earth and say something normal. It's like your toying with members like they are your toy or like you would in a shop that is out to strangle money out of awaiting people that are oblivious to your tactics.

Like I said before, I don't care if you've been around the industry 30 years or not, you obviously need to find your way back to school to re-learn the material and stop cheating of your adversaries. The day you open your mind and understand you might not know as much as you think, well that might be the day that wisdom might ring a bell.

Like I said ^^^^ up there and what I say everywhere else, I always back up what I state and you clearly can't. Grow up and act like an adult instead of a 20 year old.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 01:58 AM
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