1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

my new 99 5.9L.. long crank before start..

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Old 07-25-2010, 10:36 PM
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Default my new 99 5.9L.. long crank before start..

so i went to trade in my previous vehicle for the durango, on the first crank it took awhile for the vehicle to actually fire up.. i didnt think anything of it.. small lot, car might of sat awhile.. who knows.. took it for a text drive and it drove fine.. got home.. did some errands, went back out.. same thing long duration cranking up.. if i start it up, turn it off, and restart it, no problem.. if i do the same thing after an hour, it goes back to the long start.. i took the durango to my local mechanic who does most of my work.. he hooked up a pressure guage to the fuel rail on the engine itself, started it up, turned it off and watched the pressure plummit.. his idea is to replace the fuel pump.. i have tried turning the key to get the pump to engage and i do hear it, but i still have the long start..

prior to this posting ive scoured the internet and seen other forums with the same issue and the mention of a leaky fuel rail.. their fix also entailed new injectors and fuel pump.. all on a warrantied vehicle.. i do not have that luxury.. ive been able to find fuel pumps online for $200.. neighboor is better with cars then i and am sure he'd be willing to lend me some assistance..

there is some leakage under the vehicle buy its hard for me to determine if its gas or trans fluid.. i can get a picture in the morning.. im sure there is a small puddle.. there always is..

hopefully i can get this fixed.. i can see this leading to bigger problems if left untreated.. and that's not a good option.. thanks much..
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:19 AM
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If a trusted tech tested it and it has low fuel pressure, then follow his instructions. Replace the fuel pump.

IndyDurango
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by IndyDurango
If a trusted tech tested it and it has low fuel pressure, then follow his instructions. Replace the fuel pump.

IndyDurango
indy thanks for the info.. do you know if there are any tutorial's diy for replacing the fuel pump?
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:01 AM
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There is an entire link here via search. It is in the gas tank. Remove and replace and fairly straight forward. Since you are working with fuel, if unsure, let the pros do it.

IndyD
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:24 AM
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Sounds like low engine compression. He should have tested compression on each cylinder. You fail to mention the miles. How many?
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:34 AM
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im with indy, leaning towards a weak fuel pump.
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader
Sounds like low engine compression. He should have tested compression on each cylinder. You fail to mention the miles. How many?

115,000 miles.
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:25 PM
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Replace the fuel pump!

If you see the pressure plummit after immediate shut down the the regulator/check valve at the top of the fuel pump isn't working correctly and allowing the fuel to run back to the tank causing the pressure to fall. Now fuel will contract causing the pressure to fall very slowly and maybe to 0psi, however the line will remain full of fuel.

Concitering you have 115k on a single fuel pump then you have gottin the expected life out of it and it's time for replacement period. Expect $200+ for just the pump unit and replace the entire thing and not just pieces and parts.

To replace the pump:

REMOVAL
(1) Perform Fuel System Pressure Release procedure
as described in this group.
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(3) Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.
(4) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(5) If equipped, remove fuel tank skid plate. Refer
to Fuel Tank Skid Plate in Group 23, Body.
(6) Two rubber hoses (fuel filler and fuel vent
hoses) connect the fuel tank fittings (at rear of tank)
to the metal fuel fill tube assembly at body (Fig. 34).
Disconnect hose clamps (Fig. 34) at fuel fill tube
assembly end of hoses and disconnect rubber hoses.
(7) Position a drain hose into the fuel vent hose
(Fig. 34) and into tank.
(8) Drain fuel into an approved portable holding
tank or a properly labeled gasoline safety container.
(9) Place and secure a transmission jack under
center of fuel tank and apply slight pressure.
(10) Remove two tank mounting nuts from mounting
straps (Fig. 35). Position tank mounting straps to
side of vehicle and lower tank just enough to allow
access to connections at top of tank.
To prevent fuel
loss, be sure rear of tank is higher than front of
tank when lowering.

(11) Clean quick-connect fittings (at top of fuel
tank) of any dirt/contaminants before removal.
(12) Disconnect fuel supply line from fuel filter/
fuel pressure regulator fitting at top of tank. Refer to
Quick-Connect Fittings for procedures.
(13) Disconnect rear fuel vapor line (EVAP line)
from rollover valve at top/rear of tank.
(14) Disconnect front fuel vapor line (EVAP line)
from rollover valve at fuel pump module.
(15) Disconnect electrical connector from pump
module at top of tank.
(16) Lower tank from vehicle.
(17) Remove tank from hydraulic jack.
(18) If fuel pump module requires service, refer to
Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation.
INSTALLATION
(1) If fuel pump module is being installed, refer to
Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation. Be sure
fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator inlet fitting is
pointed towards front of vehicle.
(2) Place and secure fuel tank on top of transmission
jack.
(3) Raise tank up enough to connect fuel line, electrical
connector and both EVAP lines to top of fuel
tank. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings for fuel line
procedures.
(4) Continue raising tank into position and install
mounting straps and nuts. Tighten nuts to 27–54
N·m (20–40 ft. lbs.) torque.
Do not over tighten
mounting strap nuts.

(5) Remove transmission jack.
(6) Connect fill/vent hoses to fill/vent tube assembly.
(7) Tighten hose clamps at fill/vent hoses.
Fig. 34 Fuel Hoses at Rear of Fuel Tank
Fig. 35 Fuel Tank Mounting
14 - 20 FUEL SYSTEM
DN

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(8) If equipped, install fuel tank skid plate. Refer
to Fuel Tank Skid Plate in Group 23, Body.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
(10) Refill fuel tank and install fill cap.
(11) Inspect all hoses and lines for leaks.
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox Fader
Sounds like low engine compression. He should have tested compression on each cylinder. You fail to mention the miles. How many?
Why would you come to a low compression issue? He didn't say anything about a engine stumble or anything of that matter?
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:47 PM
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ok im gonna talk about what i know. In my old car(that was not a durango only had the D for about a month now so i can only intelligently speak on past experience) I had a problem like this and i went and got my battery and all that crap tested it all kept saying it was good i had like a 200$ yellow top so i thought there was no way it was the battery

Long story short it was the battery. That could be y it is starting up right when you just turned it. An hesitating when its been sitting.

Or it could have nothing to do with this
 


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