1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Blower motor control bad?

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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 07:19 AM
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Default Blower motor control bad?

I have a 2001 Durango. Recently, the 4th speed of the blower motor speed control for the heat/ac stopped working. This morning they all stopped working. The rear fan still works using it's own control. Does this mean that the dial for the front spped control is bad? I suppose all the dials and buttons are part of one big cluster and the dash needs to come out. Any one that can point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Shane
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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My bad. I should have look at the other posts. Looks like a bad resistor assembly.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 10:59 PM
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+1 common failure. Should be in stock at local dealer, but don't just r/r the resistor, check the wiring harness, and don't rule out blower motor which ultimately overloads the resistor. When you pull the resistor, check the pin leads, usually the power and one if not all speeds are melted. Find a "DONOR D or Dakota" for wiring harness at local salvage yard, should not be more than about $20. For Reference mine cost$25 and included the resistor. If you feel more comfortable with the dealer resistor so be it. but use the junkyard resistor for "troubleshooting" nothing more frustrating than burning up a brand new resistor. Dealer resistor should be about $15-$20 Literally a five minute repair. It takes longer to pull up part in computer, pull from stock, ring up at cashiers desk than it does to install. Based on previous failures, I keep onboard spare. Make sure you find the cause of the overload before replacing, otherwise you will be replacing again soon. I have been through two harnesses and three resistors since 2007.


This is not a part to be left alone too long, this is the main fan for not only A/C but as you go into fall and winter, it also provides the fan for windshield defroster in the rain/mist/fog and snow.

Good Luck!!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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You were exactly correct. One of the leads was melted. The black lead. I think this may control the highest fan speed. The harness was literally melted to the assembly so needless to say I need to replace the harness anyway since I destroyed the shroud around the connector.

I did reconnect it temporarily just to test the relay and it did work for the first 3 fan speeds. The black wire is totally fried for about 2-3 inches from the connector. It was not even connected to the harness anymore.

Question - where does the other end of the harness connect? It appears to go behind the duct work and the firewall. Is it a complete pain to replace? It must not be since you said it was a 15 minute repair.

I am about to head to the junk yard to get a harness and spare resistor assembly as you recommended.

Any ideas on how to find the overload? Was it as simple as the black lead being corrupt? Or is that more likely due to the overload? Is there a specific voltage I should be looking for? I think you are saying that the motor itself may be causing the overload.

Thanks so much for the response. Any more assistance would be awesome.

Thanks
Shane
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Hopefully you get this before you head out to j/y.....cut harness on donor vehicle as far up to the firewall as you can. When you cut your harness off cut as clse to the resistor as you can, you want a little extra wire in case you are like me and have to splice a couple of times. Hopefully you brought the harness or at least remembered the color codes. Remember you should be able to use a Durango or Dakota as donor.

Also remember use the junkyard harness and resistor for troubleshooting..Myself I tested the fan in each position until all wires are installed... then heat shrink and tie wrap excess wire. Once you get final ops check then install the dealer resistor and cool yourself off.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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Man, I am glad to came back in to see if you replied!!!! I was pulling out parts of the dash looking for the end of the harness. LOL.

I am glad to see you sliced, because that is what I was going to do.

Now to put the glove box back in.....

Thanks again!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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IIRC.. Black sounds like high. I don't have schematics handy but that sounds familiar.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Good luck!!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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I have my Haynes schematic with me....you might have figured this out already but here goes anyway.


FROM RESISTOR

BLK-------------------------OFF
BLK/TAN--------------------HIGH
LT BLU----------------------MED2
LTGRN/YLW------------------MED1
TAN-------------------------LOW
DRK BLU/YLW---------------TO MOTOR

FROM MOTOR BLK-------------------------GROUND
GRN-------------------------TO RUN of ignition switch
 
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 01:04 AM
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Default my 99 durango is loosing coolant and there is no leaks at all!!!! what could it be???

my 99 durango runs fine. the other day i flushed the radiator out cuz it was dirty. now i was driving the other day and the temp guage started to go up so i went home and checked the fluid it was almost empty. no leaks no pin holes in the hoses. the pass side floor board was wet but the previous owner told me it was from the ac. idk i am confused it dont smoke at all. can some one give me some clues??? when i open the hood u can smell coolant but no leaks!!!! i am so confused.........
 
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