'02 front left brakes smoking/drag
#1
'02 front left brakes smoking/drag
vehicle :02 Durango SLT, engine : 4.7 L ..miles : 90,000
Issue intermediate : left front brakes drag/smoke after heavy highway/downhill braking.
Had it in the shop and and was told front rotors/rear drums had to be changed but the brakes are good..
They were unable to duplicate the problem. I thought it was a sticking caliper but it happened only a few times over the past few months ( I don't usually do alot of highway / downhill driving for long distances)
The drums and rotors and brakes are probably a good start but before I put $XXX into this I believe there is another issue .
Any advice/guidance will be appreciated
Edit: just wanted to add ..when this occurs the frontend vibrates and the power steering feels like manual when turning the steering wheel when stopped especially on left hand turns
Issue intermediate : left front brakes drag/smoke after heavy highway/downhill braking.
Had it in the shop and and was told front rotors/rear drums had to be changed but the brakes are good..
They were unable to duplicate the problem. I thought it was a sticking caliper but it happened only a few times over the past few months ( I don't usually do alot of highway / downhill driving for long distances)
The drums and rotors and brakes are probably a good start but before I put $XXX into this I believe there is another issue .
Any advice/guidance will be appreciated
Edit: just wanted to add ..when this occurs the frontend vibrates and the power steering feels like manual when turning the steering wheel when stopped especially on left hand turns
Last edited by jims; 08-14-2010 at 06:49 AM.
#3
i would look at the front brake lines, mine was doing almost the same thing, unpredicably dragging a brake, it would end up smoking and burning especially at highway speeds, turned out a new set of brake lines fixed it, they tend to rot from the inside out, and then when you apply the brakes the fluid flows to apply them, and when you let go of it, the pressure doesnt release all the way resulting in dragging brakes, which will warp rotors and glaze pads, i would replace the brake lines on both sides up front
#4
Thanks ..been lurking for a while..couldn't find the answer to this one
Thanks ..nothing speaks better than experiance
i would look at the front brake lines, mine was doing almost the same thing, unpredicably dragging a brake, it would end up smoking and burning especially at highway speeds, turned out a new set of brake lines fixed it, they tend to rot from the inside out, and then when you apply the brakes the fluid flows to apply them, and when you let go of it, the pressure doesnt release all the way resulting in dragging brakes, which will warp rotors and glaze pads, i would replace the brake lines on both sides up front
#7
Sounds like exactly what happened to me in May...Rubber line had internal failure which allowed piston to expaand around brakes but not retract......Total damage rubber line, rotors, pads, caliper X2 sides..pads and rotor had minor fire, and was unrepairable. Lock up and Fire was passengers side front but FireStone due to liability will only replace in pairs... Basically total r/r of front brake major components and Full braking system flush...$850 Doew include lifetime warranty of rotors, pads and calipers as long as I pay for the System flush during next service. I am not thrilled but oh well no sence crying over spilled milk......or brake fluid now right....
Trending Topics
#9
Be careful about resurfacing the rotors. I had my Durango in a shop next to my work to get it inspected and the shop replaced all my brakes and resurfaced (cut) my rotors so that it would pass inspection. I picked up the Durango and drove home. I drive on the turnpike (toll road) so I did not use my brakes as it is 65 MPH highyway. Got off the ramp onto a four lane highway doing about 50 MPH and my brakes would not grab the rotors. I shifted into nuetral and had the brake pedal pressed down with no effect on my speed to a stopped car waiting to merge onto the highway. Luckily I was able to swerve around the stopped car and missing two others by inches all while standing on the brakes. The shop used a dull bit and spun the lathe too fast and it caused a ripple effect on the brakes that would not noticeable at low peeds, but would only grab the high spots at high speeds. The State Police inspector fined the shop and he had to reimburse me for new rotors and pads as both were defective. I would get new rotors.
FF
FF
#10
i agree with fascist new rotor are the way to go on these heavy trucks, especially since once you have warped the rotors the material properties of the rotors have changed, and they WILL warp again, and they will do it much more quickly than they did the first time.
and i would say that no calipers do not NEED to be replaced in pairs, if something happened to them besides normal wear, however if you have not had anything catastrophic happen to them and they just went bad i would probably replace them in pairs just for peace of mind.
short answer: its not necessary, but it IS a good idea
and i would say that no calipers do not NEED to be replaced in pairs, if something happened to them besides normal wear, however if you have not had anything catastrophic happen to them and they just went bad i would probably replace them in pairs just for peace of mind.
short answer: its not necessary, but it IS a good idea