another "ticker"
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
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From: Riverton, UT
You can try a grade better gasoline. Maybe the gas you have really sucks! Burn out what you have and go get some Chevron Premium 91-93 octane (what ever you have at your elevation being the highest) fuel and see if it stops.
Octane slows the burn so you will have full power stroke at different later (retarded) timing. If it is pre-detonation then this should alleviate the issue.
This is the reason that Indy uses Autolite Copper 3923's. The Autolite plugs are a small step colder plug so I warn you that using them creates a different burn and therefore can create buildup.
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Amateur
Joined: Dec 2009
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OK sorry if I wasn't clear on what it sounds like. Sounds like an exhaust leak yet, only happens under load and is not effected by temp. filled with 93 octane today and no change in sound. no none of the plugs where broke, all the wires are ran properly and none are touching or crossed. A buddy of mine said I may have "weak" lifters. how do check this? just pop off the valve cover and see if any pushrods are loose?
Champion
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,822
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From: Indiana
Lifters tick (established in previous posts.)
Exhaust knocks (established in previous posts.)
Sorry Warlock but at this point, with the "it always ticks", to "it only sometimes knocks", I don't think remote web diagnostics is going to help you. Take it to a good shop and it should take then 3 minutes to tell you what is wrong in person.
IndyD
Exhaust knocks (established in previous posts.)
Sorry Warlock but at this point, with the "it always ticks", to "it only sometimes knocks", I don't think remote web diagnostics is going to help you. Take it to a good shop and it should take then 3 minutes to tell you what is wrong in person.
IndyD
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
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if its weak lifters you will be able to hear them with the stethescope . you got to listen very carefully while you put it on the valve cover and listen for the tick to get louder. but personally if it is weak lifters, i donr recall the milage on yours but i wouldnt worry about it . its going to happen to all of them at some point and no sense replacing all the lifters on an old motor wait till it needs rebuilding .
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Amateur
Joined: Dec 2009
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Ok going to try replacing the exhaust manifold. my question is when using the stock manifolds is a gasket needed? The reason I ask, is because my brother inlaw has a 00' ram 4x4 5.9 he put headers on and he said when he pulled the stockers off there was no gasket. I've always had headers in the past that requires gaskets. by the way the sound is more intense under the truck, so THANKS for everyones help!
Professional
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 153
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From: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
if you check my previous posts for exhaust manifold replacement / reseating you'll see that for D's its metal to metal contact, you'll amost certainly break off one or more studs so order some in advance - if the studs breakoff then the shop will attempt to weld a bolt on to it and try again, but if that fails then the cylinder head will have to be removed. I believe that after market gaskets are available by the way
sadly many people head off in to the most complex solutions when faced with this one - and I have to admit that I also needed some persuasion by the mechanic since I was also convinced that this sound meant problems with the valve train...
Chris
sadly many people head off in to the most complex solutions when faced with this one - and I have to admit that I also needed some persuasion by the mechanic since I was also convinced that this sound meant problems with the valve train...
Chris
Last edited by Chris_Gorham; Sep 22, 2010 at 10:54 AM.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Riverton, UT
I've never seen manifold to head direct contact?
I would assume a exhaust manifold gasket is required but the manual does not talk about it. All I can say is WOW but personally I would probably install a set.
I would assume a exhaust manifold gasket is required but the manual does not talk about it. All I can say is WOW but personally I would probably install a set.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the manifold heat shield nuts, shield,
washers and extensions (Fig. 17)(Fig. 18).
(6) Disconnect the EGR tube from the right side
manifold. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold from the cylinder head.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the manifold heat shield nuts, shield,
washers and extensions (Fig. 17)(Fig. 18).
(6) Disconnect the EGR tube from the right side
manifold. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold from the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts
when removing the exhaust manifold, install new
studs.
when removing the exhaust manifold, install new
studs.
(1) Position the exhaust manifolds on the two
studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical
washers and nuts on these studs (Fig. 15) or (Fig.
16).
(2) Install new bolt and washer assemblies in the
remaining holes (Fig. 15) or (Fig. 16). Start at the
center arm and work outward. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the manifold heat shield extensions
(Fig. 17)(Fig. 18) and torque to 24 N·m (210 in. lbs.)
(4) Install the washers, shields, and nuts (Fig.
17)(Fig. 18) and torque the nuts to 14 N·m (120 in.
lbs.)
(5) Raise the vehicle.
(6) Assemble the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold
and secure with bolts, nuts and washers.
Tighten these nuts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Connect the battery negative cable.
(9) Start vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaksstuds located on the cylinder head. Install conical
washers and nuts on these studs (Fig. 15) or (Fig.
16).
(2) Install new bolt and washer assemblies in the
remaining holes (Fig. 15) or (Fig. 16). Start at the
center arm and work outward. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the manifold heat shield extensions
(Fig. 17)(Fig. 18) and torque to 24 N·m (210 in. lbs.)
(4) Install the washers, shields, and nuts (Fig.
17)(Fig. 18) and torque the nuts to 14 N·m (120 in.
lbs.)
(5) Raise the vehicle.
(6) Assemble the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold
and secure with bolts, nuts and washers.
Tighten these nuts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Connect the battery negative cable.
