Thanks for the reasurance. I know I have the Kelsey Hayes 325 ABS controler (part 5080587AD) and found a place that can rebuild it for $130 but I don't have the time to wait so i'm off to the yards shortly. One question however; I was giving another part that needed replacing and that is the Anti Lock Module part# 5096267aa but I can't find any actual pics of the unit online and i'm not sure what/where it is. I am assuming it is probaly attached to the controler, any thoughts?

Thanks

 

Ok,here's what I can tell you,any more is going to have to come from guru's ....In FSM, section 8w(wiring) figure 9, engine compartment-left front.The diagram shows the wiring harness comming out of the PDC going down towards the left front wheel speed sensor.The next place on the harness that wiring comes out(a few inches farther down the harness from the L/F speed sensor wiring) is the lead out to....Module-Anti-Lock Brakes....Now.If I look in the Splice Location Index,it tells me that the connector for the module is in the lower left kick panel,but this page (8w-91-19) is the left engine compartment.I would go out and look for you but it's pouring out right now...Hope this helps,sorry I can't find anymore on it...

 

Well, no luch with the junk yards. However, during my search I was given a local company that can rebuild both units for $450, with a 2-day turnaround. From what the compay is telling me the two units are attached together, the controller and pumping unit so I am going to get under the hood and see about removal.

I also found this online which is a big help regarding removal of the ABS controler;

http://www.modulemaster.com/en/Dodge/Durango_info.php

 

They are attached at least on our AWAL. The other p/n(and part location) that you have is for RWAL Make sure you clean out the screw heads really well and use a new bit,maybe hit it with a little PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench the night before.The screws will strip REALLY easy if you don't use a decent amount of pressure and a good tip. I don't have any personal experience with ModuleMaster but that does look like a good alternative.On mine, I'm going to address CAB only at first. If you pull the HCU you'll have to as sharp said, go to a dealer(after you do a base bleed) and have them hook up a DRB to bleed the system....Your choice tough....

 

Well, I got the part out and shipped off to ModuleMaster. It was a very easy removal. ModuleMaster said it would take a few days to rebuild the ABS Module and that they would check the Hydraulic Control Unit (which is attached to the ABS Module) and if it's bad they can rebuild it for $100. They told me that the HCU is usually fine and it is only the Module that is bad but the dealer will always tell you that you need a new HCU when replacing the ABS Module. So even if the Module and HCU are both bad the total cost will be $230 + shipping; a far cry from the $1,714 + tax the dealership was going to charge me. I should have the parts back next week and installed. I will update when all is done, hopefully this will fix the problem. I am going to also replace the speed sensors for good measure. Any quick insight on the R&R of the speed sensors?

 

Plenty of info in the DIY section on them.On mine The rear sensor was replaced by the previous owner.and I was still getting a code...it was a chunk of scale that got on it when they installed.Clean up the area around it on the rear diff really well before and after you remove the sensor.That scale was enough to tell my sytem that my diff wasn't spinning so it logged a P0500.
P.S.
I researched the Kelsey Hayes 325 the we have.I discovered that most of rebuild is resoldering and replacing a Siemans T72M relay.Broke is broke,gonna try it juz for heck of it...I'll start a thread if I have any success...

 

Sorry but no this issue was really never solved. I actually had a local dealer purge the system after I replaced the HCU/CAB assembly 2 times (2 different ones from salvage yards), replaced the front driver side hub where I believed the noise was coming from, 1 gallon change and bleed on new brake fluid (manually), and it still does the same thing. How did I solve this... I just unplugged the relay to the ABS system and removed the ABS light and brake light LED from the dash and called it a day. I spent over $1000.00 at the dealership in parts and labor and I have 1 other additional ABS module and HCU unit in the attic collecting dust until I can get it sold. Just I think I paid about $125.00 for it and it won't even hit $25.00 on eBay. I use the D for pulling my new boat with a full warranty to the marinas and I am trading it in on a new truck in the next month or so due to the grinding and clanking I get from the front left wheel when I switch to 4 wheel drive. Again... the only thing I haven't replaced is the axle shaft but then again... it would just be another toss of cash to a vehicle that in my situation is in MINT condition in and out and I have been to 8 dealers and trade in value is less than $3,000.00 even with the motor rebuilt and rebuilt tranny with both having less than 10,000 miles on them. It runs like new... it's just not worth putting money into anymore!

 

I agree with ya, dump it and walk. Something is triggering it and I don't know what. I would try to sell it outright first, but a trade in might be better.

 

You know what sucks about the whole thing is the condition it is in. For a 2001 it is a 9 of 10. I just simply tired of throwing credit cards at it. My wife rarely says anything about my approach at spending money on ANYTHING, but when she kept seeing it and trying to talk me into just letting the D age at its time, I have to admit... I now have more in her than I bought her for (the D that is)! I am planning on either a new Ram crew cab in the next month or so when I see the last quarter discounts come from Chrysler so we will see how how it goes. The only thing I can tell anyone to watch for is the age of these Ds and what can happen in chain reaction and/or the age of repair. I did the whole A/C tear out and repair on the dash that took 8 hours and the cost of a rental car in June '11, the tranny and motor in July '11, and dumped pointless money in the ABS system in August '11. So with that said... it's time to dig a whole and bury her and have a beer while they lower the cradle!

 

That doesn’t sound encouraging! I have the exact same symptom on my 2002 Durango and it is my wife’s daily driver and our towing vehicle so I don’t want to just disconnect the ABS unit and go with it. What I am doing now won’t cost too much; $130 for the Module rebuild and $40 for the rear sensor + rental car fees $200. I think I will also need to have my computer reset and the brake system power bleed for additional costs, can someone confirm if this is truly the case please. I tested the front sensors and they show good, around 1,890 ohms (the ohm reading should be between 1,800 and 2,200 ohms if anyone needed to know, this is what Modulemaster told me).

Oh, btw this Durango only has 130,000 miles on it, whereas my 94 Ford Ranger has 213,000 miles with no major repairs needed thus far.