Long Crank
OK so here's my problem
When i start up my durango it has a long crank like it just won't turn over. I first though it might be my starter. So i had it tested at the local autoshop. They said my starter is good. So they tested my alternator at the same time. They said that was good as well. I also had my battery tested at a local battery shop (batteries plus) and they said my battery is good (which surprised me because i think its stock from 2002?!?!)
Well now i'm kinda outta ideas. So i went into a shop to see what they thought. I told him my problem and he told me it sounds like a bad fuel pump. I thought that can't be right because the truck is only 8 years old with at the time only about 72,000 miles.
The guy there told me too try and cycle the key from on and off a couple of times to build "fuel pressure" and when i did/do that it starts up fairly quickly.
Also before I started cycling the key I had a check engine light/CEL and it was the code P0302 I think but it was a code for "misfire Cylinder 2"
It said reasons for this could be:
Ignition system fault bad spark plugs, ignition wires/coil,
injector fault,
vacuum leak,
low or high fuel pressure.
What do you guys think?
Like i said it only seems like it has a "long crank/long time to turn over" It feels fine running. I haven't noticed any other problems.
For a new fuel pump I'd be out about 230 bucks and since i dont have the proper equipment/space i would have to let a shop do it. Which would be another 150 or so bucks. So i'd be out a total of almost 400 bucks after tax.
ANY IDEA'S GUYS??? I'M IN DESPERATE NEED OF HELP!!!
When i start up my durango it has a long crank like it just won't turn over. I first though it might be my starter. So i had it tested at the local autoshop. They said my starter is good. So they tested my alternator at the same time. They said that was good as well. I also had my battery tested at a local battery shop (batteries plus) and they said my battery is good (which surprised me because i think its stock from 2002?!?!)
Well now i'm kinda outta ideas. So i went into a shop to see what they thought. I told him my problem and he told me it sounds like a bad fuel pump. I thought that can't be right because the truck is only 8 years old with at the time only about 72,000 miles.
The guy there told me too try and cycle the key from on and off a couple of times to build "fuel pressure" and when i did/do that it starts up fairly quickly.
Also before I started cycling the key I had a check engine light/CEL and it was the code P0302 I think but it was a code for "misfire Cylinder 2"
It said reasons for this could be:
Ignition system fault bad spark plugs, ignition wires/coil,
injector fault,
vacuum leak,
low or high fuel pressure.
What do you guys think?
Like i said it only seems like it has a "long crank/long time to turn over" It feels fine running. I haven't noticed any other problems.
For a new fuel pump I'd be out about 230 bucks and since i dont have the proper equipment/space i would have to let a shop do it. Which would be another 150 or so bucks. So i'd be out a total of almost 400 bucks after tax.
ANY IDEA'S GUYS??? I'M IN DESPERATE NEED OF HELP!!!
try this, it almost sounds to me like the drainback valve in the fuel pump isnt working anymore, turn the key on and (with the window or door open) listen for the fuel pump to prime (a whining sound) when that stops start the truck, if so i would say its just the drainback valve going bad, you can live with it as long as you start the truck as i just described, i do this anyway even tho i dont have these symptoms, but its not necessary (i have OCD about certain things.
the other thing i would suggest if what i suggested works, is to get the fuel system pressure tested, should be a port on the fuel rail, you want 50 or more PSI at that, if its low w/ the key on you need a new pump.
the other thing i would suggest if what i suggested works, is to get the fuel system pressure tested, should be a port on the fuel rail, you want 50 or more PSI at that, if its low w/ the key on you need a new pump.
I agree too. The fuel system maybe bleeding back into the fuel tank. You could also hook up a fuel pressure gauge and ck the fuel pressure. Should 58 psi give or take 5 psi, Then shut the key off and let the gauge seat under pressure for 20 to 30 mins.If the gauge drops more than 10 psi, replace the fuel pump assy.
yeah i can hear the fuel pump its pretty loud. Also my windows are always down. And yup it does take a second for it to start. Up Shrpshtr like you described when i turn the key on i hear the fuel pump "whirring" that sound it makes but i let it happen a few times. I figured it was my fuel pressure being to low as well. I mean after how much time i took researching asking and listening to it.
I'll have my fuel pressure tested as soon as i can. is there a tool i can buy myself or do i need to take it too a shop?
Thanks guys if i'm lucky i wont have to buy a whole fuel pump because i think it is working.
Like both of you guys said i think the fuel is just dropping back into the tank is all.
I look into it and get back to you guys as soon as i can.
I'll have my fuel pressure tested as soon as i can. is there a tool i can buy myself or do i need to take it too a shop?
Thanks guys if i'm lucky i wont have to buy a whole fuel pump because i think it is working.
Like both of you guys said i think the fuel is just dropping back into the tank is all.
I look into it and get back to you guys as soon as i can.
Also if the drainback valve is the problems is it a separate piece i can buy or does it mean i still have to buy the whole unit?
I know things like the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are all built in so they cant be changed separately
I know things like the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are all built in so they cant be changed separately
you should be able to pick up a fuel pressure tester for not too much
and the anti-drainback valve is part of the fuel pump assembly iirc, you might be able to put an aftermarket one into the fuel line, but i wouldnt mess with that personally.
and the anti-drainback valve is part of the fuel pump assembly iirc, you might be able to put an aftermarket one into the fuel line, but i wouldnt mess with that personally.
I think it sounds more like you need new spark plugs. Replace with cheapo $2 Champion Copper pugs gaped at .040
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Hydrashocker I wish that was the case. I'm running bosch platinum somethin right now. I'm gonna pick up some champion copper core on friday and install em anyways. God willing that will solve the problem.
None the less i will still look into the fuel pressure psi level and all.
None the less i will still look into the fuel pressure psi level and all.
Sounds good. I've seen many of issues with Platinum plugs and these motors, but you do have the 4.7L and not the 5.9L or 5.2L but still, I would change em out. During problem solving I like to revert back to the OEM Champions so you can mark that off the list besides I don't like em either.
Yeah, I don't know i the plugs are the problem because cycling the key from on to off a coupe times before turning the car helps shorten the time length of the crank by a lot so i don't know if cycling the key would effect how the spark plugs work?
Cycling key = shorter crank
Don't know if plugs are the problem but i will change em out just to change them out. i mean what I'll be out twenty bucks? not a big deal to help my truck become more efficient.
Cycling key = shorter crank
Don't know if plugs are the problem but i will change em out just to change them out. i mean what I'll be out twenty bucks? not a big deal to help my truck become more efficient.









