Title says it all. I can see fluid pooling on the frame rail just ahead of forward leaf spring mount. The idiot lights on the dash and the fact I have to push the pedal to floor to stop were minor clues as well.

I dropped the tank for easier access and managed to snap both studs the tank bands bolt to (insert cursing here!). So my understanding is no one really makes or stocks a direct replacement line, except maybe OEM dodge dealer? Am I basically stuck to making my own with a flare tool, bender, and length of tube? I consider myself a very advanced shade tree mechanic having swapped engines before, just never done brake lines. Any pointers / pitfalls?
Thanks,
Jared

 

If you can get to the dealer, you can buy the pre-bent, OEM replacements with little issue. Better than trusting a makeshift flare job you do yourself. One mistake on a brake related area and failure could mean death.

IndyDurango

 

I was in the same boat as you are except it was a 95 Towncar. No replacement lines from the dealer and they wanted $2,000 to lift the body off the frame to replace the entire line(s). There was no way I was going to be able to replace the entire line with all the bends and the length of the lines. My solution was to replace just the rusted out sections that ran along the bottom of the frame. Never having done this before, I practiced making double flares about a dozen or so until I got the hang of it. First flare was a real POS. Every cut in a line will require two flare nuts and a union. Since I had to replace two line sections, I had to make eight flares. The eight one leaked, never fails. Give yourself a little extra line with a bend here and there in case you need to re flare. Best solution would be the entire line if possible and not cost more than what the vehicle is worth! Good luck.

 

I've replaced the whole thing before on a different truck and it's a pain in the ****. Try to get ones from a dealer parts counter.

 

I just went through the same thing this last winter. I too suggest getting a complete line from front to back from the dealer, unless you are good at double 45 flares.
Also get a new hose for the rear axle, VERY IMPORTANT!! Rust chips from the old rusted line get into the old hose and act like a one way valve that WILL NOT let the rear brake cylinders retract after brake application. The hose is not that expensive, you can get that aftermarket.
You will probably end up getting new lines for the rear axle too, and possibly rear cylinders, as everything will be so rusted it will be impossible to loosen without breaking. Maybe you will get lucky though.
While your at it get all new brake drum hardware too. and top it off with new brake shoes.
I fabricated my own lines, front to back, and left & right axle. it was a pita, lots of trips to the parts store for fittings, they are not cheap!
If you have lots of time & patience go for it!
Good luck!