1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

44RE transmission clutch pack destroyed

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  #21  
Old 11-08-2010, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by webechillin

When putting the transmission back together there was some doubt on the front clutch hub (small seal) installation. If I installed it backwards would I be getting these problems?
Possibly. Lipped or asymetric seals don't seal right if they're backwards. It would cause a pressure bleed-off.

As for your hard shifts and clunks, sounds like that kit is too aggressive. What kit did you use? A mild kit is something I recommend on just about any rebuild, but if you put in a full race kit, it's not going to have good manners on the street, as they're meant to give tire-barking shifts at high RPM under 100% load.
 
  #22  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixtysixdeuce
As for your hard shifts and clunks, sounds like that kit is too aggressive.
That's what I said from the beginning.
 
  #23  
Old 11-09-2010, 04:30 AM
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Sixtysixdeuce,
I used a Transgo TFOD Reprogramming kit. Set it up for towing, the mild springs & separator plate drill sizes.

I did a pressure test yesterday on the front servo port, found this,
From a dead stop until it shifted to 3rd front servo pressure was 0psig. It went to and stayed at about 70Psig in 3rd. Then went back to 0 Psig after it downshifted to 1st at a stop.
Also with the back wheels off the ground and OD off, trans in D, engine at 1600 RPM, about 30 MPH, the pressure at the front servo port was 74 Psig and would go to 110 Psig when I moved the TV cable from back to front. I disconnected the TV cable.
According to the FSM servo pressure should follow accumulator pressure + or - 3 PSI until kickdown point on TV.
FSM says 54-60 Psi with throttle lever foreward and increase as lever is moved rearward.
Any ideas whats going on here?
I'm stumped.

Webechillin
 
  #24  
Old 11-13-2010, 05:53 PM
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Default 44RE Resurrected after my rebuild- finally

Hey all,
Found out what was going on in the rebuild I did on my Durangos's 44RE.
Turns out the used valve body I bought had a Transgo TFOD JR shift kit in it.
I was unaware of that. That explains the solid shifts. Possibly the 2nd to 3rd klunk too.
I re-set the line pressure spring to factory specs 1 5/16" (plate to VB) with the stiff TFOD spring in it not knowing it was a kit spring. The spring retainer plate was flush with the bracket when I installed the VB. I tried it like that & had the problems. Too solid of shifts & 2nd to 3rd klunk at light gas pedal.
I Took the VB out yesterday looking for anything not right in it cause it's easier to do that than take out the tranny.
So when I noticed the filed out slot across the manual valve hole I knew right away what was going on. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?
Whole new ball game!
I still had a bunch of stuff left over from my original Transgo shift kit, springs and old parts I took out of the 1st VB, so I went to work and swapped the pressure spring back to the original stock spring, and the throttle valve middle spring to the Transgo yellow one, set the pressure spring to 1 1/4" from the VB, put it all back together, did some line pressure checks, 60 to 90 PSI, looked good, no leaks and off I went.
After a few tweeks of the TV cable, IT'S GREAT! nice quick shift's, NO KLUNKS, all the gears & OD work good! WOT is good, downshifts all good.
I was just about ready to give up on it too. Glad I didn't. One last shot, I really didn't want to pull the tranny again, I got lucky is all. I could go on for hours about this. I still can't believe I rebuilt my own trans! A lift would of been nice, card board on concrete doesn't cut it! Now I Wonder how long it will last.

Thanks for the help

Webechillin
 
  #25  
Old 11-15-2010, 12:20 AM
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Thanks for your update!

Glad to see you got it!
 
  #26  
Old 04-08-2012, 06:21 PM
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Nice info Webechillin. I have a couple of questions.
Did you kept the stock torque converter?
Is the one you´re using a different stall speed than stock?
Just wondering and hoping to hear different opinions about it.
 
  #27  
Old 04-08-2012, 10:20 PM
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this is what caused the failure of my trans. the clutch discs went then in turn fried my torque converter. in all the trans shop said it was due to maintence being preformed. now with a totally new tranny, with 0 miles on it i will be doing regular maintence. i only have to take it back in to get the shift linkage adjusted. when in park my reverse lights are on. and i have a hard time finding drive, usually have to put it in 2nd then into drive.
 
  #28  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:48 PM
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Default Torque converter

Originally Posted by aDinBaja
Nice info Webechillin. I have a couple of questions.
Did you kept the stock torque converter?
Is the one you´re using a different stall speed than stock?
Just wondering and hoping to hear different opinions about it.
I got a rebuilt converter from Advance about $90, I couldn't see putting the old one back in, it had alot of gunk in it. Also I flushed out the cooler & my B&M aux cooler.
Guess the stall speed was stock in the rebuilt, nice thing about the rebuilt converter was the little bump when it locked up, not much of a bump but you could feel it, & the RPM drop, my old one didn't do that.

Good lock with your new tranny,
Webechillin
 
  #29  
Old 04-09-2012, 07:17 PM
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That price is good, I have not found anything below $120 and they are not even sure about what type of TC is lol. Do you have the web page or e-mail of Advance? I might contact them. I did a search but only found this http://www.atcsconverters.com/ Is that the place you talk about?

See you!
 
  #30  
Old 04-09-2012, 07:25 PM
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adarkrising.
Ask the guys who serviced your trans what kind of fluid they used. Make sure they used ATF3, ATF4 could do it but it is better to stay with ATF3. If they tell you they used something different to ATF3 have it changed. Even if they mention they use some additive to make it ATF3 compatible do not take chances. According to what I´ve read that won´t work in a TorqueFlite transmission. You better loose some money now on new fluid than later in a TC or even worse in a new rebuilt.
 


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