1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Synthetic drive line fluid?

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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Default Synthetic drive line fluid?

Anyone use synthetics in rear end or front drive?
Gonna drain and fill including tranny.
No plan to put anything synthetic in the AT.
Just wondering about the rear end and front wheel drive on these 4x4's.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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make sure you stick with ATF +4 for the transmission, and use the friction modifier in the rear if you have a limited slip, otherwise any fluid you like should be fine for the front and rear diffs
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 12:26 AM
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I use wallmart 75W-90 in mine, 2X4. I did not feel like putting amsoil like I did in my F-350. But I really like it in my F-350. I have it in both front, rear and the transfercase. The 4X4 does not make as much noise after I put it in.

You do not have to put syn but if you drive it every day I highly suggest it for the decrease friction, so you will have batter mpg

On my F-350 I take off the front drive shaft so that while I am in 2X4, I will not be sending energy through the drive shaft and front axel = less drag. I put it on when I need 4X4, which is not often.
 

Last edited by smokersteve; Sep 24, 2010 at 12:29 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:30 AM
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I used Mobile-1 75W-90 with a friction modifier in my rear diff oil change earlier this week. It made a world of difference. I had a lot of noise before, now its gone. I also use Mobile-1 10W -30 in the engine (5.9 L). There is no real gain in MPG but you can get a few more miles between oil changes.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:31 AM
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taking out the front driveshaft is a bad idea IMO, especially if it is set up like these trucks are with the t-case as the only way to engage the 4x4 (no locking hubs on the front), this will leave the front axle spinning with no driveshaft on it, could cause you to put the driveshaft back in at a different angle than it was (in relation to the drive gear in the differential)
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by shrpshtr325
taking out the front driveshaft is a bad idea IMO, especially if it is set up like these trucks are with the t-case as the only way to engage the 4x4 (no locking hubs on the front), this will leave the front axle spinning with no driveshaft on it, could cause you to put the driveshaft back in at a different angle than it was (in relation to the drive gear in the differential)

O I forgot that these independent in the front.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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I use Mobil One Fully Synthetic LS 75W-90 in my front and rear ends. I also use a entire 7oz bottle of friction modifier ($4.99 at Auto Zone) in my rear differential because mine is Limited Slip.

I use Mobil One Fully Synthetic 10W-30 High Mileage in the engine.

I use Valvoline Fully Synthetic ATF+4 in my transmission.


Using Mobil One Fuly Synthetic in the engine you can go at least 5000 miles between oil changes if you tow or hard city mileage. If Hwy mileage you can get up to 7500 but I just change at 5000 either way. I like Bosch, K&N, and Mobil FUlly Synthetic filtes. Usually I get Bosch filter and you can get a 5 quart container of Mobil at Walmart for like $28 bucks or so.


But acost efficenty, you can get 5000 with FS and 3000 without. What is really costing you more? The regular oil.....lol
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Sep 24, 2010 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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hmmm, my owners manual has two maintance schedules, the one that fits my driving lists dino oil changes at 5k miles . . .
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Most manufactures state a 5000 mile interval under normal conditions and 3000 mile interval if you are under severe duties like towing, city, and dirt roads. Business pray on people and tell them they need a 3000 mile interval and place a sticker in their window reminding them of it but they only do this to make more money and they can legally base this off the severe duty schedule........Sneaky Bastereds


By comparison the Fully Synthetic will add mileage between intervals so you actually save money and making your truck last longer.

Normal, from 5000 conventional to 7500 Fully Synthetic.
Severe duty from 3000 conventional to 5000 Fully Synthetic.

The other thing you have to look at is the anti-ware properties. This means for every 1000 miles you go you have virt*ally (you can't say that word here) no ware with Fully Synthetics were Conventional you are subjected to normal ware. Mainly the ware is caused by impurities in conventional oils. In comparison, a true Polly based Fully Synthetic like Mobil One is a "True" synthetic because it is broken all the way down into 2 molecules versus Hydro-Crack which is a cheap alternative. Hydro-Cracked is mainly a type of breaking down the molecular structure for a certain period of time and not a true break so you STILL have impurities! Is it better than Conventional? Yes. But a true Polly is the best period because it doesn't have the impurities in it.

Also by comparison:

If you look into European motors Mobil is making 12,000 mile oil for BMW and others. There is not really much difference in the ingredients or processing.


Same thing in ATF+4; ATF+4 acts like a Fully Synthetic but riding on a Conventional carrier. It is considered a single lifetime fill. Now how do you make it better you ask? Get a Fully Synthetic carrier like Valvoline does and its better then ATF+4! Now Valvoline Fully Synthetic ATF+4 are a Hydro-Crack Synthetic, but again that is many times better than conventional ATF+4.

Red Line and Royal Purple is an ATF+4 compatible fluids and is a Polly but it is not tested and endorsed by Chrysler so buyer be-ware.

 

Last edited by hydrashocker; Sep 25, 2010 at 02:28 PM.
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