Hey everyone!

I have been reading through the forum to try and figure out what is wrong with my 2003 Durango 4.7L SLT. It has 115k miles. I replaced the spark plugs with Bosch Platinum +4 about two months ago. I had read that plats are not compatible with the 5.9 engine, but that they are ok for the 4.7. Is this true or do I need to replace them again with Champion copper cores?

Here is what is happening. When I am at a redlight and the rpms are around 600, it will start to idle rough and I can see the rpms jump. For the first time, it stalled on me at the light today and I had to restart. It seems to idle the roughest when shifting from Neutral to Drive. The rmps dip really low during this shift and it feels like it is going to die on me.

Also, I am getting a check engine light with the following evap codes (p0456, p0440, p0441) which is on sometimes, and other times it isn't. Could this be causing the rough idle?

I had read that I could need to replace the IAC and/or TPS, because this could be the problem.

Any help would be much appreciated, as I would like to do as much of the work myself as possible.

Thanks guys!
Gloria

 

Multiple issues so let's only try to address one at a time Gloria. That okay?

Plats... okay for you. Not perfect mind you, but okay. Disregard the plugs as long as you know they were installed correctly and that the coil pack wires are all fine.

With 7 years and 115k, start with the easiest and most likely culprit on the rpm issue is the TPS. Replace that only, reset PCM, drive 100 miles and get back with us on the situation then.

Your codes seem to be O2 sensors. If a sensor(s) is failing, it sends the wrong PCM signal and the fuel curves are all fouled up. That can indeed cause running issues. What sucks is the CORRECT thing to do is to replace all 4 O2 sensors at the same time. Also, OEM quality is SUPERIOR to Bosch aftermarket ones.

Happy to help,

IndyDurango

 

Ok, here is an update on what I did yesterday.

Cleaned throttle body, IAC, and TPS, all were very dirty. Are there any indications visually to determine if the IAC is bad? The gaskets are a little loose but other than that it looks okay. Put everything back together and turned on the car and drove it today. This completely fixed the drop in RPMs when I shift from Neutral to Drive. They stay steady at around 600. (Does this seem a little low to anyone?) Looked at the vaccum hoses, which all looked good.

I definitely have a leak in one of my evap hoses, you can hear it. That will have to be replaced.

As far as the rough idling goes, cleaning everything out seemed to fix everything. Unless I experience more problems (or someone suggests that there is a good way to tell if the sensors are bad), I am going to hold off on replacing the IAC and TPS.

Any suggestions? Thanks for reading

~Gloria

 

The assumption on fixing something that is broken is that is was already clean and that simple dirt isn't the issue. We would always focus on a broken/malfunctioning part. That is step 1/2 even before getting to step 1.

Also, anytime more than one problem is at hand it is best to fox one at a time whereas not to introduce additional variables. Makes remote diag nearly impossible.

Good luck with it. Should be fine in the end.

 

600 rpms is about normal mine idles anywhere from 500-800 depending on the weather, the engine temp (warmed up or cold) at stop lights i have had friends ask me if i shut the truck off it idles so smooth

 

600 rpm is normal.