Hi - My first post, so bear with me! We have a 2002 Dodge Durango; Mileage is 100K + change. Was driving the D to work last Friday when I heard a grinding noise. Didn't want to drive it further to risk more damage. Hubby picked it up and drove it back home. He pulled off the front tires; thought maybe a brake shoe broke, etc.,; nope, not the problem. Engine works fine and the tranny shifts okay (have had some "sticking" problems in the past; revs up and doesn't seem to shift for a bit, but eventually shifts and then its okay). Has anyone had any problems similar to this? It seems to start grinding (like a metal to metal noise) when you're underway, and doesn't make the noise when you're sitting still. We've already stuck $1500+ into it in the past couple of months to replace the head gasket, and I really don't have that kind of money to pour into it at this time. I'm hoping for some quick fix that isn't going to cause cardiac arrest! We have to make this thing last for at least another year. Went to look at new trucks and I'm in denial as to how much we're going to have to spend. If anyone can point us in the right direction, I'd appreciate it greatly. My hubby is real handy and he used to work at an auto repair shop, so he knows his way around. He didn't want to do the head gasket because he wasn't sure of how to put everything back together, so we had to pay "the man." Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Well it would help to know what motor you have in there, but when was the last time you pulled the trasmission filter and replaced fluid? Also on the rear and front differential? Transfer case?

 

have him take a look at the dust shields on the inside of the brake rotor, (as well as what hydra said) and check the drums on the back to make sure they are releasing (they have been known to stick)

 

Sorry about that. We have the 4.7 with the 3.5 rear end I think. Where do I find which one it has? It's 4-wheel drive. Hubby said 2 mention that the grinding isn't continuous. Any help greatly appreciated..

 

open the hood, take a picture and post it up here and we can tell you what engine you have, the differential gearing should be listed in the glovebox

 

Thanks for the tip about the gearing. I'll look in the glove box when I get home. Hubby thinks the problem is the CV halfshaft, which I'm going to pick up on my way home and he is going to install tonight. Any special tools, tricks, etc. associated with this? Hope this fixes the problem. But I'll have him check all the other things you suggested.

I also read somewhere (maybe this forum?) that if changing the transmission fluid, we should go with synthetic due to the high mileage on our D. Is this correct?

We're having another issue that has been going on awhile. Our automatic door locks don't work 3/4 of the time. When not working, with the key in the "on" position, the interior lights all flicker. You have to use the key to unlock the door; the inside door lock button doesn't work either. Then the only way to lock the doors is to lock them from inside with the key in the "on" position. Started a few months ago - the alarm would go off when trying to open with the fob, then it gradually progressed to this. Not that we can't live with it this way, it's just annoying.

I'll keep you posted on the CV halfshaft and if that fixes the grinding problem. There has been a bit of a "clunk" once in a while and I've noticed it a bit more in the last week or so. Guess it finally just gave up the ghost!

Thanks again.....

T

 

is the clunking happening when you accelerate from a stop sign (maybe rolling stop type deal)?? if so that might be bad u joints

 

Yes, take off the large axle nut while the wheel is on the floor BEFORE jacking it up and get a large cheater wrench.

Fully Synthetic fluid is superior that the oil base is synthetic. It is basically the same thing just better lubricating. It also has more and better detergents so if it is leaking it will clean these deposits and make it leak more. If it is sealed then you should be good and it's all I use. The only maker I know of that is Chrysler approved and Fully Synthetic ATF+4 is Valvoline and it is what I use.

Open a new thread on different topic questions. Reset the factory alarm: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...going-off.html

The clunk could be a U-joint, but when trying to figure things like this out it is best to have someone out side the truck looking and listening to figure out where it is coming from to narrow it down. Good luck!

 

I may have similiar problem the noise is apparent while in motion, i jacked it up by the frame and pulled on both C V joints and they both have similiar but very small amount of play i would say about anb 1/8 of an inch in and out, and the drive shafts are solid with no play at the ujoints/.

 

Success! The cv half shaft is installed & the grinding has stopped. Cost us $69.99 for the part. Yea! Hubby figured out the "clunk" is a broken end mount on the sway bar. So all is good here. Thanks SO much for your help. Now the next project is the steering - rack & pinion is leaking. From what I've found, we can get that part for about $130.