holy schnaikees.... (to keep it G rated). Finally got that broken bolt out. Took a lot of patience, lot of wiggling, lot of cursing... And when all that failed, i called in a "mobile mechanic" that a friend of mine knows.. I usually stay away from mobile mechanics, but he is a friend of a friend, and I had no other choice. So he shows up (with his mullet, his pit bull, and everything but the kitchen sink in the back of his car).... He takes a look at it, gives it three whacks with a hammer, and pulls it right out with the vise grips...... THIS IS WHERE MOST OF MY CURSING CAME OUT!!!! So, $50 later, the bolt is out. Before you say anything, the bolt was sticking out enough to where the hammer NEVER hit the head surface... Although it did make me nervous....

So, my new question is this. Since this took longer than anticipated, my fuel injectors have just been laying around in the garage (uncovered) for several weeks. Should I try and spray them out with something in case any debris got blown around on them from the wind, etc..???? If so, what should I use? I do not have an air compressor, so I mean like some spray cleaner..


Thanks

 

I wouldnt use any spray cleaners because they can harm or break down components of the injector. I would probably use an offsite cleaning service if you're really worried about it. A place I've used before is reasonable and does a flow test first then cleans if necessary:

http://www.proflowtech.com/

 

So my first idea was the right one.....LMAO.....Forgot to mention you could smack it with a hammer but I didn't think you would do it with the head surface being right there.

Regardless, the $50 bucks was money well spent as the bolt is out!


Heating also can help free things like that as well, the thing is, it also breaks down the threads so I didn't advise it, but you could have tried it I guess.

 

A nut and a welder can also work wonders if the bolt is long enough to make it work. I always seem to break bolts off flush or in the hole though.

Oh and if you feel like you must knock off whatever dust and other stuff might have settle in or on the injectors in your garage you could use canned air like you use to clean your keyboard.

 

+1----Great idea!

Air in a can will take care of it!

I wonder if you could place a few drops of Seafoam in each injector right before you finish installation and are about ready to start, I don't think it would hurt them???????

 

I will be buttoning it up this afternoon... Do I need to do anything special to prime the fuel rails, and fuel injectors?? Or do I just keep cranking it until fuel gets there??

Thanks

 

I would cycle the key several times before you try to start it. It shouldn't take more than a couple of fuel pump cycles to prime things.

 

thanks....

 

So i recently suffered a loss in horsepower it seams after i had my D at the trasmission shop becasue it was having problems and the adjusted the govener pressure or something like that for the trasmission so idk if that would have an effect on it and i heard the plenum gasket could cause power loss if it is bad so i checked that sense i have high miles and this is what i found. just one little pool of what looks like burnt oil. so is it good and something else wrong? or what else could cause my power loss? When i put it to the floor it dosent rev as high ether before it shifts only like 4000rpm. What could be wrong?

 

It looks like the Plenum gasket is fine.

It sounds like the transmission work that you had done has changed the torque managment. What I'm talking about is the slight rev up over the transmission turning. Basically the engine is turning about 300-400 RPMs faster than the output of the transmission. It really is a bit of a slip, but anyway the factory but's torque management into the PCM so that the driver gets nice clean shifts but on the down side it warms the trans up because it is actually slipping.

When you depress the Overdrive button on the shifter, it locks up the torque convertor so it removes torque management, but it also locks out the overdrive gear. This is why it is better for towing because there is no extra slipping and no overdrive to heat it up.

So it sounds like they have changed this torque management to the lesser of what it used to be by adjusting the valve body, psi, or govener.

Anyway this transmission talk is "off topic" so we really need to start a new thread if you wish to talk about it.