1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Brake Smoke and Pull

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  #1  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:17 PM
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Default Brake Smoke and Pull

I have a 5.2 V8 2000 Dodge Durango, and a couple weeks ago, i changed the front brake pads and rotors. I didnt do much driving on it, until last night. i was driving down the road, and started smelling a burning rubber smell, almost like an electrical fire. I pulled over, popped the hood, and tried to locate the source. There was no smoke. As the smell dissipated, i figured i would make my way home. i waited a couple of minutes before i took off. About 3 minutes later, the smell was back, heavier than ever. i pulled up to a stop light, and as i applied my brakes, it pulled to the left, noticeably. When i got to the stop, i noticed a LARGE amount of smoke coming from my right side wheel well, and immediately pulled into a parking lot. Still pulling to the right. I got out, thinking something was on fire, and franticly ran to my passenger wheel well. To my amazement, there was no fire; you would've thought that there was with the amount of smoke. I waited for about 30 minutes, and started to drive off. i noticed that i had a considerable lack of power, and when i pulled up to a stoplight, i didnt have to have my foot on the brake to be at a complete stop. (It's an automatic). Also, i noticed that my alignment seemed to right itself. (i need an alignment.) Normally, and i know that sounds bad, but normally my SUV pulls to the left, me having to compensate by turning my wheel right. I managed to get home safely, but as i drove more, i seemed to get that power back, and i had to push on the brake to remain stopped. i got home, and no smoke.

What puzzle's me is this: All the signs point toward a seized caliper, on my right driver side. But, common knowledge says that if that caliper was seized, i should be pulling to the right when i press on the brakes, not the left.
 
  #2  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:39 PM
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what you have is bad brake lines on the front of your truck, i have been there, very similar symptoms.

the alignment seeming to be fixed is the result of the RIGHT brake caliper dragging, hence the left spinning more freely. the pull on the brakes when you stop can be explained by this too, your right brake is dragging so you compensate by steering to left, when you step on the brake you dont adjust your compensation(the amount of wheel you are giving to the left to keep going straight) and when yous top the left brake grabs, now the two sides are 'dragging' equally allowing you to stop, but now you are steering the truck left (the alleged 'pull').

in my experience once it starts happening if you stop and let it sit for an hour or so the fluid pressure will bleed off of the caliper and it could go days, weeks, or months w/o doing it again, however it WILL eventually do it again until you replace the front rubber brake lines.

and do your last statement, you are close, but not quite right, if you have a right caliper seized it will pull to the right while you are driving, and will SEEM to pull left when you try to stop (as i explained above)


short version in case you didnt feel like reading all that, replace BOTH of your front brake lines
 
  #3  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:40 PM
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The bake pads are hot so they don't grab as usual. The left is cold so it graps just fine pulling you to the left.

When brakes get hot they get spongy. Replace the caliper and rubber line off the caliper.
 
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:25 AM
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I notice a distinct brake smell coming from my front passenger wheel when I get out after parking. How do I know if the alleged slight sticking (I don't feel any difference when driving or braking) caliper is due to caliper being bad or the hose?

I went ahead and bought two refurbished front calipers and pads and have to order the brake hoses from the dealer (actually cheaper than the parts store).

Is my best option just to replace calipers and hoses or try hoses only. The calipers are only about $110 total after core returns and I have the money right now, but I don't want to spend if if I don't have to.

I'll either resurface or replace the rotors once I check their thickness with my digital measuring calipers.
 
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:16 PM
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I would just do the brake lines first.

Also ensure that the knuckle mounts where the pad arms slide on is not grooved or pitted. If so grind them flat and grease them with brake grease so the arms will slide and not get stuck.
 



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