The supertech filters at walmart are better than the fram filters and cheaper too.

 

Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic filters and K&N are about the best filters you can buy, unfortunately they are over priced. $12 -$14.

When ever I buy a new (or new to me) vehical I always run a oil change with the premium Mobil filter and Mobil FS 10W-30 for about 2000-3000 miles and pull the oil. This will clean out all the crap. If the motor is really bad when you get it just do a flush on the block(using Seafoam in the crank case for like 100 miles) and then move to the above instructions.

I then fully change over to Mobil FS 10W-30 and I use the Bosch filter that is about $5. You can get the oil at Walmart for about $24 for a 5 quart container, and $5 bucks for the filter. I remember through that old study that is was the preferred filter for normal everyday use and cost. All the filters had issues regardless, but the main down fall to K&N and Mobil was just the cost.

Regardless, after you do a change over to a good FS oil like Mobil (which is a true FS made of Polly) under normal conditions you should be able to run up to 7500 miles. 5000 miles if you are towing a lot, stop and go traffic, or dusty hard roads. This extends the interchange and also ends up costing you less in oil changes and ware on a motor.

 

I read that same study some time back. To anyone out there wanting to read that study, I did some looking around and here ya go...

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

 

OK, changed the oil to Mobil 1 synthetic, filter is a Fram Tough Guard (I still have 7 more of them on the shelf) and the results are similar.... low pressure when starting (although the check guages light doesn't come on initially now) and it pumps up to 1/2 gauge after 10 seconds. Minor engine noise but that also goes away after a minute.

I pulled the valve covers and everything looks normal, chains appear tight with no notiable wear marks on them. Guides look good (at least what I can see of them). FYI, oil that was drained was reasonably clean and in good condition.

What bothers me is that if the pump is going bad how can it maintain pressure after it starts? Why wouldn't it be dropping at an idle? The gauge is rock solid at the halfway mark. I realize that it's electronic and not overly accurate, but I would expect some change in it.

Regarding Fram filters, I don't personally think it makes a huge difference what filter is used, as long as they're changed religiously. If you're sludging up ANY filter in 3k miles there's trouble brewing anyways!

I'm going to run it this way for awhile and keep a close eye on it. The plan is still to replace the motor in the spring anyways, and dropping the front axle Christmas week doesn't sound like too much fun!

Thanks for the advice, & everyone have a great Holiday season.

Bob

 

Yeah I use Fram tough guard usually and haven't had a
Problem with it as stated before. You will probably notice a slight difference in oil pressure after a few changes, as full synthetic flows like water at -56 and doesn't have such a dry start on a cold start.

 

If the pump is cavitating because of negative pressure, you will loose pressure especially at idle.


I had this issue with my old Durango with the 5.9L: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-pressure.html

Replace the PCV valve and check all other hose's, see if that fixes your problem.

 

Negative pressure? Isn't that the purpose of a vacuum? Sorry, couldn't resist.

Very good point on the cavitation, I hadn't thought of that. I'll pull the PCV tonight and check it. I do recall during the head replacement that the line going to it had a bunch of white milky gunk in it (congealed water & oil) that I assumed was from the engine digesting water through the cracked head. I had cleaned it out & replaced the PCV then, but I doubt that I ever got rid of all of it.

Thanks!!!

Bob

 

Update:

I pulled the PCV and found it caked up with white goop. I cleaned it out good and it rattles again. While I was at it I pulled the lines to them and cleaned anything out that I could find. They were reasonably clean with just a small amount of gunk in them. Startup showed no real improvement, so I'm going to leave it the way it is for now and step up the search for a rebuildable core. Any leads on one in the Western NY area would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Bob

 

Positive Crank Case Ventilation! (PCV)

However by using technical terminology, I guess the correct wording would be pressurized and not Negative pressure, but yea you got it.


If you didn't have the heads machined it could be cracked or warped causing oil to enter the cylinder?

 

No, I didn't have the heads machined. When I pulled them the pass. side was good, the drivers side had a crack between the water jacket and the front cylinder. Replacement head checked flat with straightedge & feelers so I just bolted it on (new FelPro gaskets & bolts on both sides). Pass head was also checked flat.

No oil / water usage so far that I can see. Truck starts & runs fine, still getting 16 mpg. Boys are on CL daily looking for an engine for it. They're dying to use their new "first tool kits" that Santa brought them!

Bob