I've been going for a few years now with the left headlight going out. When we check it out, the center pin/connector in the connector shell is burned and melted. I have replaced it three times and upgraded to high temp connectors with the same result.

I had the dealer check and replace it also, at the start, and had to pay for it, they said it not covered, that it's my bulbs that are heating up and melting the connector because they are not standard bulbs. If that were true, then the whole connector shell and light assy would melt, not just the area around the pin/connector and the same problem would be happening with the right headlight as well I would think.

I did some checking into the lights and found all the data for most of all the major headlights (9007/HB5) and found out that my bulbs and the other major bulbs are all rated at 5amps, 55/65watts, standard for the 9007/HB5 bulb, so the draw is the same on them all. The only differences is my bulbs have a coating on them for night/fog vision.

I also found that a poor or bad ground wire can cause the pin/connector to arch, burning, overheat and them melting the area around the pin causing the highlight to go out, and adding a second ground to the connector to the frame will correct the problem.

Has anybody had this same type of problem and will replacing/adding a ground wire fix it?

Is there some place online I can view a wiring diag or does someone have a link to one?

 

the whole assembly would NOT melt in this case, just the plug, especially if you are driving, the air moving past the light housing will be more than enough to stop the lense and housing from melting, and if melting was a problem they couldnt mount the headlights open to the engine bay, water temp =200*F that means that its alot hotter than that under the hood.

did you try replacing the bulbs at the same time as the connector? it sounds to me like there is something causing problems btwn that pin of the connector and the bulb? did you try switching that bulb to the other side? see if the problem followed it? did you try replacing the bulb, if it didnt happen w/ the factory installed bulbs and it did once you installed the new ones, the only change was the bulb, that HAS TO BE where the problem was origionally. (replacing the wire harness and connector while the correct fix, could have caused something else to cause it now)

i would put factory bulbs back in and see if the problem goes away, also btw there is no COATING that can be put on a bulb to make it better for driving in the fog, you'v been had.


and you posted in the wrong section, you wanted the 1st generation section, ill move it for you this time.

 

Yes I have changed bulbs, used factory rated standard HB5 bulbs, moved them from side to side, all with the same results. It's only the left side, the same connector in the plug and same small area even with the new corrector. So there is no difference in the result. It's something beside the bulbs or connector, it's a bad connection somewhere in the wiring that cause the weakest point in the line, the connection between the socket connector and the bulb pin to arch, burn, overheat and melt. ALWAYS THE SAME.
There are many, many post online from all makes and models with the same type of problem, in tail lights, turn lights, headlights etc... A connector problem resulting from a poor ground, or other connection in the line overheating at the weakest point. This is basic resistance for current flow, overheats at the weakest point.
I'm just looking for a wiring Diag to trace the wiring to the power box and try to correct the problem. Or find someone with a dodge who found a way to correct it some other way.
As for the coating, I should say they are like fog lights lens, color/tinted glass that work better for all weather driving. otherwise they are the same as standard HB5 bulbs. They even cost the same.

 

IMO thats what fog lights are for . . . (and im well aware of how current flows, im an engineer so have spent MORE than enough time working w/ it), and the part that is overheating is either arcing or is not the right gauge wire for the current that is flowing thru it

however, if you want a wiring diagram, check the FAQ thread at the top of the section, there is a link in there to dl a factory service manual which includes wiring diagrams

 

Thanks loads, I found the complete service manual.

A bit of F.Y.I. for the Forum, during my hunt for sockets and wiring diag, I learn the following about the headlight sockets.

Most standard sockets shells are rate for around 400-450 deg.
with 18 gag wire standard for most 9004 (HB1)/9007(HB5) headlamps sockets on the market.

The contacts in the socket shell however are made of tin and only withstands about 200 deg. So, even if you buy High Temp sockets, and the shell is good for about 500-575 deg., the contacts are still made of tin.

You can find some sockets, high performance/high temp with 16 gag wire, but the contacts them self are still made of tin.

At lease this is all I could find out contacting the makers and suppliers I could find on the WEB. Some never got back to me.

The other thing, is that even with tin contacts in the sockets shell, they do not melt per say. The heat causes them to loosen up and then you have arching at the contact between the pin from the bulb, which generates the heat burning and melting the area around the contact its self.

This is most likely cause by the contact it's self being poor or from somewhere else in that current line. So I understand it from other repair geeks, pros and DIY's.

In my case it looks like the ground is not making a good contact somewhere, so we are going to try adding a second ground directly to the frame near the socket, to that connectors ground and see what happens. I've been told, if I find the other end of the ground wire, there will be most like some arching there too. Based on that fact that its always the same contact in the sockets, even after replacing the socket and changing bulbs around. Something other than the socket contact or bulbs must be causing this. And it's only the left headlight.

 

HI Retired,
I have the exact same problem, but with the right headlight. A faulty ground may be hard to track down. Why can't we just run a ground wire from the headlight connector directly to ground and just abandon the old wire?

OOps, just noticed you posted this 3 years ago!!

 

Just like bad starters it is most common to have a bad ground wire or chassy connection for said ground easy to cheack use a multi meter and probe your connector verify proper ground if it is hot then clean up or add another ground to fix the issue. bulbs act like fuses when things are wrong but cost more. Keep us posted to what you find.

 

If the plug is melting there is bad contact or too thin of a wire that is getting hot. A bad going far away from the connector won't cause the connector to get hot. It's got to be the connector it the bulb going into it.

 

Well after all is said we have fixed this once an d for all. Simply replaced the cheap standard tin pins with aftermarket pins. Got them at the local auto store for a few bucks for a pack of them. They don't look much difference bit a little bit makes a big difference in this area. 1st the hold better and transfer heat better, bottom line is, it's been over two years and we have burned out some headlights. But no longer have pins get shorted and become lose and arch and the light goes out. As far as the center pin melting the area around it, we put ceramic sockets on a year or so before the pin replacement, only to still have the pin fail before replacing the pins that come with all sockets including the ceramics high heat. If you wish to do it with the top of the line SS pins are available, but I opted for the standard.


As far as treated and tinted headlights they are a dime a doz. and all weather coated are not alone in this group. could list a doz. sites off the top of my head that sells them.....


Good Day

 

Glad to hear you got things taken care of. Do you have a link to the pins you got for future reference?