I guess the part that confuses me the most is that it runs perfect after a PCM reset....but just for a minute or two. If I don't reset te PCM and come back to it an hour later it still has the problem. It really seems like a TPS problem because in park if I revit up to 3000 it slowly comes back down. Also, after I reset PCM throttle response is normal (for a minute or two). Maybe I should take the new TPS back and swap out for another one? It wouldn't be the first time I bought a new but defective part from Autozone.

 

TV cable is just something I pulled off my head, all it does is controls Shift point and speed. It really doesn't do much.

Maybe guys with Trans experience like MasterTech will be able to tell you more. But if you are lucky, you might only have a Sticking/leaking TCC Solenoid, and all you need is to drop the Trans pan and Valve body, and rebuild the Valve body.

 

tv cable wouldnt do this, it would however affect shift points if it was out

it really sounds to me like the torque converter is locking up and NOT unlocking when you stop, it could be a computer related issue, but i would lean more towards the torque converter or tc solenoid being the issue. first thing to do is to check the trans fluid level, if it is overfilled or underfilled it can cause alot of problems

 

It could be a bad TPS. I've seen it before and I'd start by doing that because it's the number one cause for the symptoms you're stating.

 

Thanks for all of you guys; efforts on this. I'm with Whitewidow, I think I'll try anotherTPS first because they'll replace it for me (no additional cost). shrpshtr325, I should have answered you before. I have checked the trans fluid and it is normal. The trans had just been rebuilt by car dealer when I bought it. The TC Solenoid is definitely a thought too. If new TPS doesn't work I'll check that out as well. I'm NOT a very good mechanic at all...just routine maintenance and simple repairs. But I'm learning a lot with this Bronco restoration I've been working on. It's an 87 Full-size and bought it for $750 mostly rust-free and I'm almost to painting point. Looks like I may have to spend my paint money on Durango repair as it's my daily driver and I do love it. It's my 2nd first-gen Durango.

 

Just thought of something I failed to mention. Per service manual I tested the voltage on the TPS and at Idle (no throttle) I was pulling a little above what WOT should be. Dumb me, after the tensioner thing and all the frustration I was feeling, I failed to test voltage on the new TPS. Of course, the voltage to the new TPS would be the same as the old one.
Any ideas on what would cause the voltage to be so high? A bad PCM would definitely throw a code right?

 

What do you mean too high? Are you back probing it?
When Throttle is fully close, I think it is like 0.5 volts ish. But repair manual said 0.29-0.95 volt is acceptable. At Wide open Throttle it should be 4.5 volts. And you back probe the Center Wire and measure it against ground.
If the Old TPS and New TPS is doing the same thing, I doubt it is the culprit. But I know Autozone is pretty relaxing when it comes to exchange parts, so it doesnt hurt.

If the trans has been rebuilt, usually the dealership would throw in a New Tq converter too, I would lean toward the electrical side instead. But looks like you might not be able to tackle this one urself.

Does it make any difference when you Put ur Trans in 1 or 2 instead of D?

 

sounds like something to do with the torque converter, probably irrelivant, but my neon is doing something almost identical, except it rattles, then dies half the time. i know thats whats wrong with mine, or i hope, is the TC, locking up when it shouldnt be.but, im no pro, just a thought.

 

When fully closed I'm getting around 6.1 volts and it doesn't change at wide open throttle. That was with me probing center wire with red and black grounded on neg battery cable.

No different in 1 or 2. I tried that one today too. Yeah, I think you're right...above my mechanical qualifications.

 

So psycho_mike18, when you hold the brake pedal down in drive it rattles then dies? Mine will do that too. It will die after the whole rattle/shake thing. It didn't start out doing that it would just clank..I swear it sounds just like a diesel truck. Even the diesel truck mechanics there said the same thing.

I have a good friend who's a mechanic at the local dodge dealership. Maybe I can persuade him to come over and check it out.