I would say Torque Converter

 

If it is the torque converter why does it work for a minute or two after I reset the PCM?

 

This is correct, what you are supposed to do is turn the ignition to the run position (not start and do not have the engine running) and test the wire closest to the cab. This wire should not be above 5 volts.

Then you test the middle wire which should be around 0.5 volts (performance tuned to 0.70 - 0.75) volts and should not be fluxuating because the engine is not running. As the throttle plate opens, the volts increase coming out of the middle wire from the TPS to tell the PCM that the throttle is opening so to increase fuel. The maximum voltage you should get out of the TPS is 4.5 volts however and that would be at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).

The supply line at the TPS (side closest to cab) is VT/WT wire. The middle wire is OR/DB and that is the wire that sends the information back to the PCM.

Now your saying that on the VT/WT wire (closest to cab) that the input is 6.1 volts measured by testing the wire at the plug and your negative wire is grounded to the battery? And you have tested across the battery post to ensure your multi-meter is calibrated correctly? This is a problem as you should have only no more than 5 volts going to the TPS.

Now you also state a different problem, the voltage coming out of the TPS (middle wire) OR/DB is the same voltage as going in with the throttle body in the closed position. This means that the TPS resistor is burned out and allowing full in and out voltage. This means you need to replace it.

Now if I got all of your information correct, I would tell you to replace the TPS and the PCM as the regulator in the PCM is shot and sending too many volts (over 5 volts) to the TPS and most likely to the other portions of the truck that are regulated down to 5 volts like the MAP, CPS, TPS, Cam sensor, and a number of others.

 

Thanks Hydro...I hoped you would see this and chime in with your valued opinion. That was my fear all along...PCM. It was odd because I still have no error codes whatsoever.

Today, I put a new battery in only because one was available to test at no cost. Of course it didn't help as my battery was fine.

I did calibrate the multimeter based on the battery and it was reading correctly. I also replaced the TPS again just in case the on I had was bad but it didn't work. I tried power-braking her to "test" torque converter but that didn't help either. I think the torque converter is fine as I experienced no issues with transmission up to the moment all went south. Plus, reseting PCM resolves issue for about 1-2 minutes.

I'm going to have it towed to by Dodge tech's house next week. Not that there are any "good" times for this to happen but the next couple of weeks are particularly hard financially so it's really bad timing. Hard to run a service business without wheels!

Thanks to everyone for your assistance and I'll update you all when it is resolved.

 

Thanks for the kudos, but I think you did all you can do other than replace the PCM. You can get a pre-flashed one that is ready for plug and play install for like $200 bucks from Ebay. Like I said, it's plug and play.

 

Thanks again Hydra. I checked them out on ebay and noticed one of the vendors in in Charlotte, NC and a lot of my work is in Charlotte. I'm going to call them Monday morning and see if I can drop it off for pick up on Tuesday. Hope they give me a price break because they are $295 for the 5.9L. The Florida company will repair mine for $124.00 but I imagine it will take much longer due to shipping back and forth.