Not sure about there being a kit, I bought individual parts when I did my heads. If you're just doing the timing cover, you'll need a timing cover gasket set, but you may be better off waiting until after you pull the cover off to identify it. There's an "early model" and "late model" gasket set for it. One has a large fiber gasket that goes around the whole cover, the other has a couple of rubber rings for the water passages and you use permatex on the rest. Either way make sure you carefully replace the timing cover seal, it's easy to distort when you install it.

Timing components are available individually as needed. If you're just pulling the tensioners you won't have to worry about timing at all. Make sure you check the guides for wear as well.

I can't access YouTube where I am right now but will try to later. I've never heard a whine from timing components though, usually more a of clicking or rubbing noise. Pull the valve covers and have a look at your cam bearing surfaces as well. The cam is actually hollow and oil passes through the journals and through the cam to lube everything else. If one of the journal holes is sludged up it'll restrict oil flow and cause the cam to run dry. That would cause more of a whining noise I would think.

Bob

 

Bobman-I don't think it is a cam problem as I don't (yet?) see any metal in the oil. Also, the frequency of the noise is not at "cam" speed which is half the rpm of the engine. The engine runs fine. On warm starts I don't hear the noise...just cold starts. I think you are right, I will have to tear the timing cover off and have a look see and buy what I need. I found the kit with all of the chains, gears, tensioners and guides for $416.00 at Autozone. I would rather only replace what is needed. I will however replace the water pump as recommended by others. I downloaded the 2002 manual which I hope will work with the 2003.

 

02 and 03 are pretty much the same, the manual will work fine. Doubtful that you would see much metal in the oil if one of the cam bearings was going anyways. Better to pull the valve covers and check them just in case!

FWIW, my high mileage 4.7 (160k+) had noisy starts, especially in cold weather. I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic on the recommendation of others here and have had a dramatic improvement in engine noise (or lack of!)

Bob

 

Dmeray1,
Listened to your YouTube post. When my tensioner went the timing chain was actually slapping up against the inside of the block making a nice rapping noise in addition to a rough idle from the timing being thrown off. On Bobman's breakdown on parts removal, I have a 2001 4.7 and did not have to remove the intake manifold. Not sure on other years.
Respectfully,
Mark

If you go with a kit. I got mine from Rockauto for around $350

 

My bad on the intake removal. I did my heads and not just the timing work. You probably can get to everything without taking off the intake.
I also listened to your YouTube post.... sounds like more than just a "whine" to me as well!

 

Well I have it apart and everthing "looks" fine. Can't really see any problems. I put some photos on my other NOISE thread. As I have it all exposed I will put the timing kit in. I ordered a timing cover gasket and it came in as a thin metal, maybe .020, with silicon already applied. There was no gasket on there originally...so it looks like I will be taking it back. There are timing kits on ebay for under $200.00. I found Auto Zone at $416.00. So I guess I will check out the ebay stuff for sure.

 

Here is that thread: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-noise.html

It's not a good thing to cross post however, it really mixes things up for the average member.

Like I said in your other thread please post a picture of your valve train (in your other thread)?

 

The tensioners service life is measured by the thickness of the pad pushing on the chain. I don't have that measurement here, but it's listed in the Haynes manual and should be in Chiltons also. The way they work is that the spring pushes them out and the ratchet pawl holds them there. If the spring is weak they can't go back in, but they also wont go out any further either. You can pull them off to examine them closer, use a small piece of wire inserted in the hole in them to hold them closed while you install them. I believe they are also fed with oil from the mounting face.

Check out your guides for large grooves - it indicates that the chain is slapping on them. You need to pull your valve covers as well and take a look under them. FWIW, low oil pressure / oil restriction (sludge, blocked filter, etc) will also cause the 4.7 to make a racket while starting.

Mods, maybe these posts can be combined to make it easier to follow?

Bob

 

To add to what Bob is saying...When the tensioner went on mine, I could compress it with just my thumb and index finger. If it's good, you'll have to compress it in a vise or with a C-clamp to get the wire in. New ones usually come in a compressed state and wire inserted. Don't remove the wire until you have it bolted in and the chains installed.
They are fed the oil from the mounting face and from what I understand can become plugged if you don't maintain the oil changes.

 

Hello Everyone new to this site.... i Just bought an 01 Durango 4.7 non running.. (paid 1500)... well after i tow this to dealer because i was told the key wasn't programed.... p(cost 145 with tow and programed key). the truck didnt get a spark.


I put computer it kept saying cam shaft senor. replaced($30)
computer said same thing replaced again( $30) After realizing that they could go bad if you drop them. after 2nd one installed computer said same thing i took it out put camera in hole with light turned engine over and notice the chain was off on the Right side.(NIGHT MARE STARTS)

I took vavle covers off to get to timming chains which there were was metal all over the place. i took heads off sent to machine shop($540) ordered timming chain kit(200 ebay) gasket kit(100 ebay) set timming which wasnt to bad but when i tested timming with 2 rotations of the crank shaft back to TDC it should still be at 12:00 which it was..... i turned it several more times just to make sure it was set right. after about 4 sets of turns 8 rotations i noticed that it wasnt at 12:00 at TDC it was at 11:59.5..... then another 8 turns it was at 11:59.

I put engine back to gether it started up with no problem.... maybe 3 days and driving a total distance of 1 mile. i parked truck for a week or so....

i went to start today and the truck didnt start is it possible it could skip timming. let me know

sry bout spelling

SRY bout spelling