IIRC hydra, but then again I've been hanging out with the Captain tonight so I'm not 100% sure. I'll check into it when I go to work Monday. LOL

 

Well, I'm hanging out with the Lord tonight.....LOL

 

Wat about his coil, could it be that?

 

If he would just take it in and get that code pulled then we could know what it is because an ignition coil would more than likely send a misfire and ignition coil code. Without knowing what that stored code is it's just like shooting blanks into the dark, you're not going to come close to hitting anything because it's blanks in the dark!

 

Well I got the D scanned. Nothing came up. And this was one of those high end snap-on scanners. Couple of you are mentioning coil. Any way to check or diagnose that without replacing it?

 

Just throwing this out there, and I am a bit old school thinking if carbs instead of all this fancy injection stuff we run nowadays, but you may want to look for air leaks intake side, it could be something real simple the computer is not picking up.You seem to have had the exhaust tested and lots of other stuff, but ( and I have had a few brews ) , it has to come down to fuel, ignition, exhaust. Would it be silly to suggest that you do a good old fashioned spark plug diagnosis, just a drunken thought, that may at least be a starting point cos this seems like there is a lot of stabbing around in the dark going on here, costing you lots of money and not getting it fixed.
Have to add, I am no expert, just wanted to throw an idea out there, good luck.

 

So you don't have a MIL aka Check Engine Light anymore if there's no codes? How much have you driven it since you reset the computer and did all the work to it? When you reset the computer it resets codes too so you have to drive it around a while for it to get that code back on if its a code problem.

 

yes u can check coils with a volt meter...gotta check the primary and secondary. but a misfiring coil will prob throw a code. but u never know.

to check primary gotta take the red lead to pos+ on coil and black lead to coils neg-, check for resistance should to around .3 - 1.0 ohms (I dont know exact readings for durangos)

to check the secondary keep black lead on the neg- on coil and put red lead where the wire distributor wire goes. should be around 8k-12kOhms (again dont know exact readings for a durango)

 

The D never threw a code to begin with. I reset the computer after the pvc's and 02 changes. Since then i've driven it a good 100-200 miles. But still, never had the check engine light on to begin with. Weird right? Thats why i made sure to get it scanned with a proper scan tool. Thougt maybe something would come up, but nope.

Sweet, i'll get my buddies voltmeter and the spark coil right away.

Seriously thanks for all the help guys. Even if this doesn't solve the problem it'll help me tons if I take it to a shop. It'll give them less to screw me over on and save them a few steps.

 

Sorry I got confused with someone else posting inside the thread and is why I hate when multiple topics get started inside others. I just re read true the whole thing and am back up to par. Like it was said check on that coil because it does give problems like you're stating when it goes out.