When I drive my Durango for the first time each day, the braking is very sensitive. I suppose it's better than loose brakes, but I can't tell you how often I come to a screeching halt in my 15 mph neighborhood. People look up at me as if I was going 60. Any thoughts, or what can I look for in the brakes area to determine common malfunctions.
Thanks,
Flip

 

this is normal when moisture gets on the pads over night, the first stop gets rid of any remaining moisture/surface rust and then they stop as designed from there on out, not really anything you can do about it.

 

What I think is going on and tell me if I'm wrong, you don't drive but a few stops from work? Meaning you only have a few places you hit the brakes on your normal travel and your normal speeds are slow? (not highway travel)


If this is the case what is happening is you have rust on your rotors. The rust acts like sand paper to your pads. Instead of slipping as they clamp (like a nice slow braking) they are course and therefore GRAB the rotor causing a skid or chip of the tires when slowly hitting the brakes.

When this happens you need to wear down the rotor enough to burn out the rust. Now rust causes the rotor (or other metal surfaces to actually pit) as it goes around and you hit the brakes it grabs, but does not cause enough wear on the rotor to burn out the pits, instead it cleans them off but leaves the pits. Now with the pit's still there it gives the rust a point to attach and grow. The point of all this analogy is for you to understand you have to get rid of the pits in the rotor meaning you have to ware the rotors down enough to get rid of not only the rust but the pit's that are there.

The best way of doing this is to get on the freeway. Get off and exit that has a stop sign at the end. Find one that nobody is in front of you or behind. Now crank up the speed before you get off the freeway like about 75-80 MPH. Exit the ramp and wait allowing you to get about 1/2 the way there and hit the brakes REALY hard but not enough to lock em up but still remain in control. Now don't wimp out and think that's good enough cause it isn't, you go to act like you’re the boss of your ride. What this is going to do is heat the **** out of the pads, but before all that heat is generated it will wear the rotors first and burn out those pits that have taken hold of your rotors.

Remember to do this on cold pads not hot ones!


Disclaimer: I don't validate the warrant of these claims and this is my non-professional or professional judgment. Do at your own risk. The forum or I am not liable for any situation you occur while driving or following these ruels.

 

brake lockup is never normal.

Assuming you are a 2002 or less... have the system bled with new fluid. Additionally (and most important to control the lockups) have the rear drums properly adjusted.

If you get ANY air in the MC, the ABS will need to be purge cycled via the tools at the dealer so beware.

Also note, high speed stops as described above is the quick path to warped front rotors if they are stockers. You'll know because you will wobble soon enough once the warpage sets in.

IndyDurango (lockup at slow stops: been there, done that)

 

Actually Indy I have the same issue on mine in the early morning if it rained the mornin before ONLY. I just purged my system and replaced my pads and machined my rotors and get this in the morning so I'm confident it's surface rust like shrp said.

 

Rears Rears Rears. Rotors are on the front. It is the drums, not the rotors.

When you adjust the rears (and maybe even need to turn/replace the drums) self or professionally, let me know when the lock up goes away.

No amount of single day rust or even week long rust after a rain is going to cause brake lock up. Seriously guys.

 

Well I adjusted the drums at the same time I had it in the shop to work on the rotors and pads. I replaced the shoes on them about 2 months before I worked on the front too.

http://www.bendixbrakes.com/download...ake_Lockup.pdf

 

"Cheap drums, with inferior metallurgy, are prone to the condition. It’s
worth knowing, though, that until a layer of friction material from the brake shoes has
been embedded in the working surfaces of new or resurfaced drums, even good drums
may be somewhat susceptible, too."

Well... I certainly discounted the possibility that you guys have "Cheap drums, with inferior metallurgy, [that would be] prone to the condition" AND junk shoes that for whatever reason have never left any layers of transfer material (IE:have never been used because that condition wouldn't last 10 minutes after regular driving)... but I guess anything is possible. eBay and China rules now-a-days.

Discounting possible, the probable candidate however is still the adjustment and whether the drum is properly 'round.' Simply stating as fact because of "been there/done that."

 

I think Hydrashocker is spot on. You will all find this interesting, I never said where I lived. When I do I think you lean more toward the rust pitting issue. I am on the island of Guam where my commute is a short 5 mi and I stop at one stop sign, the rest are loops. The speeds are 15, 25, and 30 mph. And rust, let me tell you about rust on a small island. Cars come here to die, and the do from the outside inward. I am sure there is rust and pitting on the pads. No wobbling or warp feeling from the rotors. I think we have our problem. Thanks,
Flip

 

i would like to know what coming from the OP said lockup indy? i dont see it anywhere in the OP or any other posts by the him, he said sensitive brakes, i had the same thing and it was only after rain, the little bit of surface rust gives you just a enough extra grab on the first stop, it happens on all of the cars we have and please dont go telling me all 4 of our vehicles have brake problems, bc there is no way in hell that is true.