check the crank position sensor, if its not plugged in the truck wont start

also: yes just pulling the coil and holding the plug to the block should work fine for checking for spark, also check the fuel pressure and see if all the relays fuses are good in the PDC

 

Thanks, I'll give that a go with the plugs. I have fuel pressure at the rail, and I picked up the light testers that plug into the injector harness to test if they are firing. I'll double check the crank position sensor and relays/fuses.

 

Another way to test the plugs (safer!) is to unplug the coil and put a 12v bulb across the leads of the wire going to it. If the bulb lights then you're getting power to the primary coil, hence you should be getting spark unless the coilpack is bad. Doubtful unless you dropped all 8 of them?

You put on a new pass. side head (and presumably) camshaft. How about the sensor ring at the end of it before the timing gear? There are two versions of this motor and the sensor rings are different. Maybe you have a 16 in a 32 (or reverse?). If you used the original sensor ring then scratch that thought....

Bob

 

Be warned, as Bobman said the light is a much safer way, if you hold it to the block be prepared for a nice tickle and wear thick leather or rubber gloves.

 

His is a 2003 so he would have a 32 tooth cam, and it would be on the passenger side. But yes, a 16 tooth would bolt on directly so defiantly check it. It does sound like a crankshaft or camshaft sensor though.

2000 thru early 2001 has the 16 tooth and late 2001-2003 has the 32 tooth PCM's. You can also tell the PCM's apart by looking at them. A 16 tooth PCM has 3 plugs while the 32 tooth PCM has 4 plugs on it.

From what I've read; You can remove the crankshaft sensor and check the camshaft tone wheel's teeth with your finger. JTEC's (16 tooth PCM) have a wide notch while the NGC's (32 tooth PCM) have a narrow notch which you can barely get your fingertip in between, so it's easy to tell.

 

I'm using my original camshaft gears. I definitely have the 32 tooth PCM. I'm just getting ready to go down and check the crank and cam sensors. I know for certain that I didn't plug in the crank sensor, what I don't remember is if I unplugged it when I took it down I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the input guys.

 

I checked the crank sensor, I never touched it while tearing the motor down, I reseated the plug anyway.
When I was moving the cam sensor to the new head I remember seeing that it was "scuffed" and not thinking anything of it. After pulling it just now, it definitely looks like when the old cam broke the wheel was rubbing the sensor. I'm off to the auto parts store for a new sensor. The wheel didn't show any obvious signs of damage when it put it on, am I probably going to need to get one of those too? Any suggestions as to where?
Thanks

Lombard

 

Whooo hoooo! The camshaft sensor did the trick! Although some idiot put the washer on backwards on the belt tensioner so now I've got to get a new belt, but she fired right up after putting in the new cam sensor. Seemed to run a little bit rough, but I'll find out tomorrow for sure.

 

OK, so I thought I put the shaped washer on the tensioner on backwards, but that isn't the case, it for whatever reason, is now unable to tighten down and still spin. the shaped washer touches the plastic on the side of the pulley and just holds it down tight. I've taken off the idler to make sure that I didn't get the shaped washers switched, and they are definitely on the right things. The idler is great, but I can't tighten down the tensioner without locking it up? This is supposed to be the easy part. /sigh

 

OK, got that straightened out. . .just dug around in the toolbox and found a washer that fit it better (I think it's actually off of a weedwacker, but it fit good). Now I'm gettng a p0121 code and it's idling pretty rough so I'm off to the auto parts store to get a TPS.