I've also sounds like I've got a definite exhaust leak on the passengers side, can't tell exactly where it's coming from though. The manifold gasket is new and torqued properly, and I have re-attached the manifold to the pipe twice now and no difference.

 

I know the 2003 is the last year they made the first gen durangos, is it possible that there isn't a power steering pressure switch on this year? or that they moved it? I still can't find mine, I have checked the pressure hose from the pump to the gearbox and it just isn't there. I also don't have any connectors that aren't plugged into anything.

 

the pressure switch was a 4.7 specific part so id say it has to be there somewhere

from the factory service manual

do me a favor and take a picture of your engine bay, put the power steering reservoir cap in the lower left corner of the camera, and stand in front of the truck, only cover far enough right to see the edge of the battery and post it up here

 

Yeah, I only have a haynes manual, but it says that the 4.7's have one as well. But scouring the web, I can't find anything (other than a switch to purchase) for newer than the 2002 4.7's
Here is the pic you asked for



on another somewhat related note, I found a cracked vacuum hose, it's the one that connects to the back of each head and then to the intake/breather at the front. It was cracked pretty big on the right (passengers) side, which is also the side that is running quite rich. apparently I didn't inspect all my hoses quite well enough when I put them back on. Hoping replacing that tomorrow will fix my rough idle/no power issues.

 

OK, I fixed my vacuum leak, and actually I don't think it was a vacuum hose, it's the one that connects on both heads and goes across the intake and attaches to the filter box. . .anyway no joy.
The D runs like crap. It shudders and shakes @ idle, doesn't feel right revved up either, and if I try to drive it, it has not guts whatsoever. My driveway is uphill, and I drove down it thinking things weren't too bad, and almost couldn't make it back up. Pedal to the medal and I can't go 5mph. Out of gear it revs just fine. just a recap of this thread

Passengers side camshaft broke.
Replaced passengers side head.
Had drivers side head replaced.
Replaced timing chains and tensioners/guides (used original gears)
New gaskets all around.
New plugs
new cam position sensor
new TPS
new o2 sensor (pre cat)
new coils

What am I missing? It ran beautifully before camshaft broke. Heck, it ran better with the broken camshaft than it is running now.


Oh yeah, its not throwing any codes either.

 

Typing this on an iPad aso forgive any typos please. Where did you get your heads n cams from? Is it POSSIBLE that you have either the cams swapped or cams from a newer engine in it? one of the things that still bothers me is the amount you had to turn one cam to put the chain on. I really don't recall having to move it that far. Also you indicated that the cam was very hard to turn. That's not right. It should turn smoothly but reasonably easy, just like a crankshaft. If it doesn't then something isn't right. The litters are actually just lash adjusters and if they're not pumped up they'll rattle like hell but won't cause a valve to stick or not open.

A bad power steering switch will mess with the idle speed but not much else, so I don't think that's your problem. The lines you speak of on the head crack easily and will cause your idle to be high n engine to run rough. I'm assuming that they're the ones on the back of the heads and are molded with 90 degree bends in them. Make sure you replace them with molded ones as a straight piece of tubing will kink n leak on the fittings. Dealer sells them or match up something close from auto zone. You'll have to trim the auto zone ones to length.

Personally I'd look at casting numbers on the cams and start from there. Vacuum leaks will make things worse, but won't rob that much power. Sounds to me like a valve issue still. Sorry!

Bob

 

The end of the saga. . .hopefully

OK, I got to the end of my time/capability/rope so I had my D towed to a mechanic. Filled him in with the background and let him get to work.

Apparently when the camshaft went it took out the piston rings on that side as well. It pressure tested great before the camshaft broke, but after I got it all back together and over to the mechanic it tested between 50 and 65 psi on all 4 cylinders on that side.

They said that when they put a little tranny fluid in the cylinders it brings the compression up to about 90-100 for just a minute, but then it goes back down to the 50-56psi range. They suggested putting a used motor in and selling the heads and stuff from this to get a little of my money back out of what I have put into it.

A big thanks to all you guys for all your help and ideas and for letting me use you for a sounding board. I'll likely have the heads, timing chains/guides/tensioners, intake etc up for sale in a few days.
Definitely not the way I wanted this to end, but hopefully it will be ended for a LOOOONG time.

 

Yea, sounds like the rings. Sorry to say.