Yep, noticeably less bounce in the second video, but I don't know how much slack/movement there should be in that motor. I want to mention again the possibility that the tensioner might need oil in/circulating through it to work properly, sort of like a lifter in your valvetrain uses the hydraulic pressure of oil to keep your lash adjusted correctly. I've seen a couple built that way, so it's a possibility that it'll be fine under normal operation. I wouldn't re-install the old one, no.

 

I am ordering a new chain for the right side. I will compare the one in there to the new one and the old one to see if there is a problem. Here is another video that shows the slack. I noted that the tensioner had tension and the chain on the lower side was taught. The upper side after the cam not so much.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i7ze...&feature=feedu

 

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine who knows a few things about this motor. The tensioner does use oil as I suggested above, so it probably won't function perfectly until the motor is running and there is oil pressure in the tensioner. Also, you will always have one side of the chain be a little slack, this is 100% normal. The gear pulls one side tight as it turns, and leaves the other side with a little slack. Again, this is normal, and in fact, necessary. So long as the tensioned side is tight enough to keep the chain from jumping, and there isn't so much slack that the other side doesn't feed onto the gear correctly, all will be well. You'll probably find (when you compare chains) that there's little, if any difference in size. Chains don't actually stretch much, it's wear in the links and rollers that causes them to appear to stretch. Timing chains don't really have this problem often, like a motorcycle chain does.

 

Thanks for the information. It is helpful. I understand what you are saying about the pulling by the gear but the left side bank does not appear to have this problem...it is taught all the time. I will compare the chain tomorrow and go from there.

 

Pulled the chains and gear out to inspect them. The photos show what may be the problem. The cam gear on the right bank has some wear marks that I do not understand. Also, the chain has some wear marks as well. I have a new chain and the original cam gear that looks perfect to reinstall. We will see what happens from there.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ray1/Wear1.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ray1/Wear2.jpg

 

That gear shows some significant wearing, I don't know if I'd put it back in. It's actually scraped and galled on several teeth (good eye, I see you marked them all), something that I've never really seen in a timing set that didn't come from a motor with serious problems. It's more difficult to see the wear on the chain, but I'll take your word for it, you seem to have some mechanical ability/intuition.

I don't know if you noticed, but the damaged teeth on the gear appear to be every other tooth...don't know if that's significant, but it's something to think about and investigate. I honestly don't know what the hell it means, other than there is something going on I don't quite understand.

If I were there, I could be of more help, but you're about 1200 miles away, and a six pack and a steak just aren't going to work

Keep this updated, and I'll chime in if I have any more ideas/theories. I sure hope you can get this solved, buddy.

 

Going back a few posts, both chains should run smoothly with no "jumping" at all. The tensionor is oil fed, but I doubt if the pressure contributes much to the tension adjustment, I believe it's more of a way to feed oil directly to the chain as the primary source of lubrication. The oil then flows back down to the pan through an opening in the bottom of the timing cover.

Slight slack on one side (the return side) of the chain is normal, but it should not be enough to allow the chain to "slap" at all. With both chains on and tensioner pawl pins pulled you should be able turn turn the motor over by hand IN THE RUNNING DIRECTION ONLY and the chains should move smoothly with no binding or kinking at all. Turning the engine backward at all will allow the slack to be transferred to the tensioner side of the chain and will cause the spring to push the tensionor out too far, catching on the next pawl of the ratchet. This will put too much pressure on the chain when it goes back to the normal rotation.

Looking at the gear damage I think you are definately onto the problem. Thise gears should be smooth with no marks on them, and the chain should ride on them very smoothly. It's possible when the old tensioer broke that parts of it got caught drawn up into the gear and marked it up some, regradless I'd look them all over very closely and replace as needed. Checkout the intermediate gear as well, and make sure the retaining bolt is torqued properly.

Bob

 

Ok, installed the new chain on the older gear that did not have the wear marks. When cycling the engine by hand I never see the looseness in the chain that I showed here before. Under cranking there is no slapping on the upper side and the tensioner seems to be just fine. I have the valve covers back on and will button up the timing cover later today, but I have homework to do first. I am encouraged....finally.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUxC7...&feature=feedu

 

That looks And sounds better, although I'm surprised how much that tensioner moves around. Does the other side do this as well? I've only rotated it by hand when opened up so i can't really say what is right, but I think you've got it beat now. Make sure you post the final results here.

Bob

 

Looks good, much, much better. Oil pump is good and strong, too