when they put the weights on did they do the outside and inside of the rim or did they do tape weights

 

could be that your upper & lower susension bushings need replacing - they could have failed & its difficult to check the lowers...Chris

 

Yes. Weights on both inner and outer flanges. Not tape weights.

 

What kind of tires are you running

 

DUNLOP ROVER RV XT

http://www.dunloptires.com/dunlop/di...ea=Light+Truck

31x10.5 R15

 

UPDATE:

I took the truck into the shop and complained about my vibration. The first thing they suggested when I explained everything to them was U-Joints, just like hydra said. We put the truck up on the hoist, and removed the driveshaft and checked the u-joints. They were perfectly fine.

Then, they suggested that due to the vibration being speed dependant, it must be related to wheels/tires. Either an out-of-balance tire, seperated tire, bent rim... etc. Well, we took all 4 wheels off and checked them, they were all fine.

I took it for a short highway drive right after leaving the mechanic and the vibration still seems to be present. It doesn't really affect anything other than my sanity - because the constant hum and rattle of the chassis is driving me crazy.

 

How are the Tie rod ends and ball joints

 

Could be an output bearing on the T-case, a weight flew off front or rear drive shaft, or a pinion bearing.

I still think it's a U-joint or the double Cardan U-joint.


Now the rear drive line will usually always have pressure on it so It shouldn't move unless the pressure is removed and gears reset (wheels chocked), or in trans/T-case in neutral. The front drive shaft (if not in 4X4) should be able to move slightly. What you are feeling there (the slight movement) is the gearing backlash witch is needed.

Really the only way to test a drive line U-joint is to replace them or have it turned (balanced).

If you can get your wife in the back maybe she can tell you if it is coming from the back or the front drive shaft to narrow it down.

It could also be a front CV joint, but usually you would feel that in the steering wheel, not under your butt.


In comparison, I had a slight vibration and I knew it was a U-joint. Even though after I took it off to rebuild my transfer case I still spent the $9 per U-joint and put new ones in. After disassembly you could feel the rear most bearing had a slight flat spot in it, even though it felt good enough on the drive shaft. Once the U-bolts were taken off you could feel it in the caps. Now no more vibration, but then again I knew it was a bad one.

 

Alright, thanks so much for the repeated advice gentlemen, I do greatly appreciate it. I suppose since U-Joints are such an inexpensive and easy fix... I could just replace them and see if it fixes the problem.