Hi Swoodruff,
My problem was resolved when I had the ABS module board repaired.
Since you changed out the module the board repair would obviously not help you, unless it was used and possibly defective. Did you pull a code? If not, you have to find somebody that has a
scan that can pull ABS codes. The only place near me I could find was a
Firestone and they did it for free. Maybe you’ll get lucky and it threw a
code which should get you in the area to start diagnosing.

 

My module had to be sent off to be refurbished but when it was put back on my truck there was zero change..it was 600 bucks down the drain.
Not 100% on the code thing but that will be the next thing...thanks so much!

 

If they charged you $600 for refurb, they must have felt the unit was defective. Maybe the module was never repaired correctly. The problem on these modules is almost always on the board. Did they give you a repair report stating problem found and correction? I’m guessing not. Pull the code and if its 65 or (I think 0065) send it off to the company I noted above in my first reply (Circuit board Medics). $160 for repair with a 1 day turn around and a year warranty. If you find the module was never repaired I would try and get a refund on that $600.

 

I was told it was defective yes. Most all work done I do myself but the module was just above my comfort zone. So 600 is a bad price to pay? I was sick when it didn't repair my truck.
how can I have codes pulled? The one who did the work should have the information right?

 

Your local parts store might be able to pull codes for you.

 

Whoever did the repair should have information on the defect or how else would they know what to repair. $600 is a lot to pay if you can get it done for $130. If they truly determined the module was bad and made a repair that did not work I would say they should fix it again or give you a refund. Assuming they warranty their work. Not all scan tools can read an OBD error so you have to call around to find a shop that can read the error code.

 

to me 1028 and 1032 is definitely within range and "close enough" to being "around" 1000 ohms.are they all "rust jacked"? that will push the sensor away from the ring, clearance between sensor and tone ring is important but you cant get in there, and measure it within the hub assy