what engine do you have

 

it sounds to me like you got a bad clutch, i would take it back and have it changed

 

i have the 4.7 motor .. are you talking about giving the fan a push and see how far it goes? or you talking about grabing the fan and see how far i can push it around ... just giving it a push and letting it go it only goes a half spin.

 

+2 on overkill....

 

If you spin it and let it go and it goes half a turn, I believe that is good. I'm not familiar with the 4.7. Does it have a serpentine belt? If so, is it possible that it is routed wrong causing the water pump to spin backwards?

 

i dont think that is the problem i am starting to think its a bad or clogged radiator... i think i had this same problem with my 5.0 mustang years back .. when i wouold rev the motor the coolant would go up and out with the coolant cap off instead of getting sucked down .. i replaced the radiator and it fixed it after replacing every other coolant possability first.. the only thing i havent replaced on my durango is the water pump and the radiator... water pump isnt leaking or making noises so i dont think that could be it but i might be wrong... how hot does the truck have to get to warp my heads again .. like i said befor it got hot on me saturday just hot enough for the check gauges light to come on then i turned the ac off and started driving then it went off . is that hot enough to warp the heads again ? or does it have to get real real hot ?

 

you need one of these to check for hot spots in the radiator
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ter-93984.html

 

i agree check the radiator for hotspots, chances are at this point thats your problem.

 

This forum is starting to remind me of a pet store full of parrots. Everyone hears good advice from a knowledgeable person, then they start regurgitating it without any firsthand knowledge. If you don't really have a clue, quit guessing.

Anyhow... Lets clarify this "hot spot" thing a little... When you are using the thermometer (like the one suggested earlier), you should notice a gradient. The coolant should be cooler leaving the radiator than it was entering. You are actually looking for pockets that are outside the gradient. This will indicate a clog... hence, poor circulation.

 

I recently fixed a similar issue with my 4.7 Durango. It started overheating when it was hot outside and the A/C was on. When the A/C was off, no issues. After replacing some parts I found out that the E-fan was bad so I replaced it. Situation improved but wasn't completely fixed. By this time it was getting cool outside and there were no further overheating issues so I let it slide over the winter. Needless to say, summer arrived and the overheating issues returned. After further trouble shooting I found two issues: the Dorman E-fan I had replaced in August was broken and 2) the upper radiator hose I cobbled together with a Dorman filler neck had a slight leak. I replaced the fan (again) and bought an upper radiator hose from the dealer and she has been running cool for the last 3 weeks in 98 degree weather, stop and go traffic, with the A/C on Lessons learned: 1) Some parts need to be purchased locally. The first E-fan I purchased had a warranty but I would have had to box it up and send it back to them then wait for the replacement to get here. No bueno 2) Some parts need to be purchased from the OEM. I bought the Dorman parts because my closest dealer is an hour drive away and I wanted to fix it ASAP. Unfortunately, the quick fix in this case wasn't a fix at all. 3) Dorman parts may be of suspect quality. I was under the impression that Dorman parts were decent but judging from my last two Dorman purchases, I was obviously mistaken.