thats what we are trying to tell you, based on what we have heard, there is no problem

 

This is what someone over at another forum said to do, would you do it? think it will help?

The 4.7 is OHC.. It doesn't have lifters.. It has hydraulic lash adjusters.. But that sounds like what it is. My truck had a similar noise, which went away after I flushed the engine.

I forget where I saw the recipe, but I've used it (about 30,000 miles ago) and this stuff works like industrial engine draino - the crap that comes out looks like oil that's been in service for 60,000 miles. You will need 3 cheapo oil filters (they'll only be run for 30 minutes each), one of your normal oil filters, two gallons of kerosene, one large bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, seven quarts of cheapo 10w30, and 6 quarts of your favorite 5w30 or 0w30 oil.

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All "oil starvation" noises should be gone at this point.

 

i wouldnt do it, no marvel mystery oil or other additives(these are the snake oils of the present, unregulated and overpriced) should be added to the crankcase, i wouldnt use kerosene (very similar to diesel fuel) in the crank case for any reason, this is just asking for trouble IMO.

besides immediately after shutting the truck off you probably wont be able to get the oil out, the pan and oil will be so hot you would burn yourself pretty badly if you came in contact with it.

p.s. if you want to use anything to try and get crap out of your engine use seafoam its about the only one that seems to have any merit, personally i wouldnt use anything, but its your truck, not mine.

 

Well I disagree with ya Sharps.

I have talked about this before but with far less mixture then 4-1 ratio. It was more like 1.5 quarts diesel and 3.75 quarts oil. This was to help insure against wear on the motor. Also, draining the oil HOT is the best way to do it because all of the depsoits are suspended in the oil and can be drained out. Once the settle (cold) then you don't get them all the way out. Look at any quick lube, you pull in hot and come out with a new change. In fact it is the proper way of changing the oil, however I only do it after the truck has sit over night to get all the oil out of the top of the motor (but that's my opinion).

You are supposed to wear gloves when your messing with the hot oil for protection. Regardless, this is a very old mechanic trick to clean out old motors. In fact I think it is a WAY better way of cleaning them then Seafoam......IMHO......But again I wouldn't do it this members way.

The reason he mentions to use Marvel Mystery Oil is because it is mostly all Mineral Oil with a few additives. Mineral oil will give your bearings lubrication, however not enough protection.....IMHO.....to lubricate the main and rod bearings. This is why he says it will spin a bearing (meaning a main or rod bearing). I completely see the logic in his instructions, but again at the most I've only ever used 1/2 and 1/2 and added mineral oil.

Now would I do it? No. But have I done it? Yes. It was mostly used back in the day for cleaning out motors because of sludge from the old shearing 10W-40 age. However, I would not use kerosene, I would use Diesel because Diesel has more detergents and more lubrication.

 

no argument about draining the oil hot being the correct way to do it, just pointing out that it requires extreme caution, and a very good set of heat-proof gloves, i always drive the truck to get it up to operating temperature before changing the oil, but i also let it cool back down a little bit before letting it all out(and then i let it sit with the drain plug out while i go have lunch/a beer/do something else to drain it all out)

i would also like to add that i mentioned this to my dad bc i thought it was crazy, he said using 25% diesel fuel in the oil was actually an old-school trick for cleaning out poorly maintained engines so there may be some merit to it, but he also said that you dont run it for long with the mix in there, and you definitely do not drive it with the mix in, maybe 10 minutes idle time max according to him, im sure there are going to be a number of different opinions, i still stand by my original one that i wouldnt do it, but im sharing other opinions and stories that i have heard.

 

Yea you would want to wear gloves when messing with the oil. Remember it's going to be around 200 degrees or so when hot.

I agree with your dad, to run it for 1/2 an hour is wayyyyyyyyy too long.....IMHO......+ 1 on the 10 minute mark. You do a few 10 minute changes then do a fill with regular oil for about 100 miles to get out any residual. Then go back to your regular 3000-5000 change.

If you remember I told Indy to do this to his motor when he was complaining about the build up in his motor and everyone thought I was nuts. I wasn’t nuts, because I know it will work, but it's not something I would recommend to everyone to treat every condition. In his case I think it would have help dramatically because it was build up not sludge as most cases are. I have seen that type of build up in many engines, but it is usually first caused by the previous owner using cheap oil in the case therefore getting the block and components covered in a sticky slight glaze. Once the motors pitting is covered and hardened it's hard to get off.

This is one of the reasons when a motor gets rebuilt they use a chemical dunk tank and it cleans out all the pits in the metal and all the build up in oil passages and water. Even all the parts go into the dunk tank in a grated box. Then after all the cleaning they are blown off or out with compressed air and checked for specifications. If they are out then you replace just that part. Now if you build a motor you still use a lot of those parts, some are just modified, and some replaced. The crank journals are ground and matched with new main/rod bearings.


Anyway, you get what I mean.

 

I got around to pulling the pass side valve cover off this morning, the inside of the head is really clean, no sludge or build up, the rockers are intact, BUT I found a problem I think, it the pass side timing chain it seems to me like there's a LOT of slack in it, I made a video check it out tell me what you think, is this normal? thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDEzHJe7Aig

 

Me thinks you found the problem!

A bad tentioner.

 

+1 hydra

 

+2 on the tensioner , definitely looks too loose to me

that looks like one of the 2 secondary timing chains, check the other 2 as well to see if they are loose