Just went fully synthetic!
i did not mean to come across as harsh so im sorry about that, but you have to be careful who you listen to
Mobile 1 seems to be the best, i know Amsoil is up there, and i have heard good things about royal purple, however i use shell dino oil in mine so wtf do i know?
Mobile 1 seems to be the best, i know Amsoil is up there, and i have heard good things about royal purple, however i use shell dino oil in mine so wtf do i know?
Thats alright Shrp! No offense taken by it lol. Yeah I'm just curious to know if the synthetic is ah, I guess you know a big step up from the regular stuff? i mean i usually just do an oil change every couple months when i get a slightly larger paycheck lol. when that extra few hours put me up 20-25 bucks than i just do one. lol
Is synthetic really "that" much better or is it just better in the sense it last longer and has more cleaning additives?
Is synthetic really "that" much better or is it just better in the sense it last longer and has more cleaning additives?
it has more detergents in it, and has cleaner particles from the start making it much better for the longevity of the vehicle (hydra can explain better)
however you still need to change it regularly, and even if you run the oil companies claimed 10k mile extended interval you need to keep in mind the filter wont last that long even if the oil does, you need to change the filter around 5k miles (maybe different filters have different life spans) no matter what.
also you shouldnt do an oil changed based on time alone, you need to keep in mind how much driving you have done, every 3-5k miles depending on your driving habits regardless of time, this will put a clean filter on (more efficient oil flow, and more flow, dirty filters are restrictive of flow) and fresh clean oil in the crank which will prevent sludge from forming (lack of properly timed changes are the leading cause of sludge)
however you still need to change it regularly, and even if you run the oil companies claimed 10k mile extended interval you need to keep in mind the filter wont last that long even if the oil does, you need to change the filter around 5k miles (maybe different filters have different life spans) no matter what.
also you shouldnt do an oil changed based on time alone, you need to keep in mind how much driving you have done, every 3-5k miles depending on your driving habits regardless of time, this will put a clean filter on (more efficient oil flow, and more flow, dirty filters are restrictive of flow) and fresh clean oil in the crank which will prevent sludge from forming (lack of properly timed changes are the leading cause of sludge)
Im going to be switching to full synthetic on the next change and going to be switching all fluids to mobil 1 before fall.
I've been told by some that once you get close to or over the 100k mile mark its almost pointless to go over to synthetic?
Is that true? I was thinking about using synthetic oil too. I'm at roughly 82k miles now.
Is that true? I was thinking about using synthetic oil too. I'm at roughly 82k miles now.
With only 82k on the clock get over there and get the oil changed.....LOL....I would go with Mobil One Fully Synthetic 10W-30 or 5W-30 since you have a 4.7L. You can get a 5 quart container at Wal-Mart for like $25 bucks right now and a Bosch filter for $5.
I think it is mobil1 with a Fram Xtended guard filter good for up to 10k miles.
Well its been maybe 2 months for me and 600 miles? I dont put miles on the D as much as some people do/have to when my mom gave it to me in winter of 09 it had 69k miles? so i dont drive her as much as i'd like lol but i could go 5 months sometimes and not break 2k miles.
i usually give her an oil change regardless of money right before our big snow storm. i dont wanna go roll around in mud changing my oil in the winters lol
But no worries miles lol my oil changes always happen before 3.5k miles. if i have to I'll get my dad to buy it all he doesn't care. just feels good doing things yourself sometimes.
in a few weeks when i do an oil change I'm gonna go with with mobil1 5w30 and is there a big difference in oil filters? if there is i'll spend the extra two bucks on the better filter
i usually give her an oil change regardless of money right before our big snow storm. i dont wanna go roll around in mud changing my oil in the winters lol
But no worries miles lol my oil changes always happen before 3.5k miles. if i have to I'll get my dad to buy it all he doesn't care. just feels good doing things yourself sometimes.
in a few weeks when i do an oil change I'm gonna go with with mobil1 5w30 and is there a big difference in oil filters? if there is i'll spend the extra two bucks on the better filter
idk if you have seen this or not hydra, but reading it through is very informative, according to this purolator pure one (their top of the line 'best' filter) has better filtering capability than mobile1
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...rence.html#wix (scroll down to the mobile1 part)
K&N seems to be the same filter as mobile 1
Mobil 1
M1-301
This filter is made by Champion Labs, however they are still using their older "performance" design rather than the new "Ecore" design. It uses a unique end plate and a thicker can than other filters using either of Champion's designs. Perhaps these customizations are the reason the old process is still being used. It may also be that the new "Ecore" design, with its fiber end caps and plastic core tube, is not as strong. This customized original Champ design makes it one of the toughest filters available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic fiber blend media, which improves filtration, capacity, and flow. This filter is not just a re-branded Champ filter, especially not now since the Champ brand uses an "Ecore" filter.
The element uses a synthetic fiber blend that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.
I had received many reports around 1999/2000 about these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split. I haven't heard anyone mentioning this issue in the past few years, however.
M1-301
This filter is made by Champion Labs, however they are still using their older "performance" design rather than the new "Ecore" design. It uses a unique end plate and a thicker can than other filters using either of Champion's designs. Perhaps these customizations are the reason the old process is still being used. It may also be that the new "Ecore" design, with its fiber end caps and plastic core tube, is not as strong. This customized original Champ design makes it one of the toughest filters available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic fiber blend media, which improves filtration, capacity, and flow. This filter is not just a re-branded Champ filter, especially not now since the Champ brand uses an "Ecore" filter.
The element uses a synthetic fiber blend that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.
I had received many reports around 1999/2000 about these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split. I haven't heard anyone mentioning this issue in the past few years, however.
K&N seems to be the same filter as mobile 1









