I'm missing something here.... what cavity is the sideways valve lodged into? The cylinder? How is it preventing the head from coming off? It only needs to lift up maybe 1/4 inch or so to clear the locating pins out of the block. Are you sure you got the front two small bolts out of the head and nothing else is holding it down?

Also, pictures would be good to help diagnose the extent of the damage done.

*EDIT* If need be, take a socket and place it over the valve spring washer & tap it with a hammer. That may compress the spring enough to allow the valve to unstick. If the valve is really jammed in, you may be able to compress the spring enough to get the keepers to pop out completely.

Bob

 

Oops. My bad. Told you I was not THAT good of a wrench! Missed the bolts holding the chain guides. Head is off! Valve threw a ring and got wedged in the chamber. The piston has a small mark on it, but all looks good! Don't see any cracks or major damage. Gonna get the manifolds off the heads and take them for service. Can I rotate the motor now, just to check things out?

 

Yes

Remember to use new gaskets when putting it back together. You should use new head bolts as well. After your done I would put it back to #1 TDC. Sounds like the piston is fine as long as there are no cracks or anything like that.

 

piston has a small smiley face worn into the surface...should be fine. ran into problems getting the exhaust manifold off the head---busted a bolt in each and cannot get a hold on most due to the severity of rust. since i am taking to a shop any way, i hope they dont charge me to much to have the manifolds removed. I sure as hell am not gonna stick 250 into new ones. Need to find some new bolts, but maybe shop will take care of for me. $160 to have the valve job + parts, then comes the rebuild! I will try and post a pic of the blown seat and the smiley face. Thanks again!

 

Attachment 13703

pic of the bad valve

 

Ya you definably dropped a seat but it still looks good?.....Only a shop will know for sure. I know they will remove them but it will cost you a bit more.

 

trying to be funny, but I got reeeeeeallly lucky i think

 

LOL


Yea I think you'll be ok on that. Just ensure you have the same clearance all around the piston to the cylinder wall.

 

Yes, you did get lucky!!!! It could have just as easily punched through the piston face and caused a bunch more damage. Don't feel bad about mising the front bolts, I spent an hour trying to get mine off too cause I missed the lower front one. Easy to do.

Couple of things to add here... If you have a die grinder / small cut off wheel you can cut the rusted nuts off the manifolds yourself. Just cut into them on one side and split the nut, it doesn't take much effort. Could probably do it with a hacksaw blade as well. Once you get the nut & manifold off you'll be able to grab the stud with vice grips. For replacement studs go to the dealership if you're going to put the heat shields back on. If not, you can use bolts from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. just match up the thread pitch with a stud, they're metric.

Regarding head bolts, in this instance I'm gonna disagree with Hydra. Check over the bolts good with a straight edge and make sure they're not stretched. If they're good, go ahead and re-use them, IMHO they'll be fine. Yes, you're SUPPOSED to replace them as they are put in to a certain torque value and then turned 90 degrees more, however for what you're doing (head gasket only) I'd have no problem re-using them again, especially if you're trying to keep this cheap. Make sure to clean the threads good before reinstalling them to get accurate torque readings.

While the motor is down this far check out the chain tensioners and guides for wear and replace accordingly. The Haynes manual has the max wear measurements in it.

Looking good so far, keep up the good work!!!

Bob

 

Well considering torquing a bolt is actually the measurement of of which is the "stretching" of a bolt, how do you re-stretch a bolt that has already been stretched to the point of it's torque.

Simply meaning, when you torque a bolt you "stretch it". If the bolt has been stretched "torqued" already the only way to stretch it again is to torque the bolt over it's original torque "stretch". Therefore, if I re-use torqued bolts I always give it just a little more so that it doesn't back off.

So if you are not going to use new bolts then I would at least torque the bolts just over the specifications. Now normal torquing wrenches are 4% out of spec's I would at least torque the old head bolts 5 lbs over the spec's so that they are stretched again and they don't back off.....IMHO