136 was the standard 160 came with the tow package whichever you want will work (id get the 160)

 

Just returned from O'Reilly's the guy there pointed out that the 2001 Durango has an external voltage regulator. It is in the PCM which would be why the alt passed out of the vehicle but should low/no voltage while running. Dodge is one of the few that did this WTF????

 

are you saying that the guy at Oreillys is telling you the voltage regulator is the problem? bc that would mean you need a new PCM, (dodge did this on all the trucks i believe, and definitely all the durangos) however the regulator failing is not at all common.

 

Why else would the alt pass off vihicle and not when it was in the vehicle? I just want to make sure I replace the correct part. $150 for an alt I don't need would be hard to swallow at this time.

When I first start the durango the voltage gauge on the dash is fine then after a few min 5 - 10 the gauge drops to 0 and the check gauge light comes on. Do you think it still could be the alt even though it passed off the vehicle?

Good news is I don't have jury duty today, one small victory

Thanks for you help!!!

 

congrats on getting out of jury duty, im looking through the factory service manual for you ill let you know if i find anything

 

SO you would rather spend $220 - $450 bucks on a new pre-flashed PCM rather than trying the one thing that makes the voltage be my guest.


HOWEVER,

The guy down there at the parts store is correct, the main voltage regulator is in the PCM, however there is also one in the alternator. Now your gauge inside the cab detects the voltage BEFORE it is regulated into the PCM. This is why you get battery charging voltage over the 12 volts regulated at under 14.4 volts......blah...blah...blah

Now if it the actual voltage regulator in the PDC shot then the truck could not run because all of the ignition voltage and running voltage runs through the PDC. It also regulates some sensors like the TPS down to 5 volts......blah...blah...blah

Anyway, by default it cannot be the voltage regulator as seen. It would have to be a bad rectifier bridge in the alternator because when it went out it took voltage out of the battery to run the truck, but the gauge drops to zero or to a low state. This is why your lights went dim, radio shut off, and ......blah...blah...blah, because as the battery went low voltage (because of no/low voltage going in and still running the truck) when there is no voltage coming in, it is expressing the charge until the truck and accessories drained the battery below the 12 volts necessary to run the truck and therefore killed the engine.

But hey, it doesn't matter to me if you want to listen to a parts clerk or a room full of specialists, well it's up to you.

 

I got the new alternator, the 136 amp because I don't tow much it's what was in there and it was cheaper, had the same problem.
When I put the new one in it looked like everything was working correctly. Volt meter in the vehicle was up to about half way, all dash lights were off yee haw. About an hour later went to take a test drive and blam volt meter dropped to nothing, check gauges light came on etc. I Tested it and the alt was putting out about 11 volts while in the vehicle. Took it to O'Reilly's and they tested it and it was putting out almost 15 volts. My old one passed there too???
I talked to a local shop and he felt it was the alt too. He had the same coments Hydo had about the regulator etc. He said to get an OEM from dodge, cost more but better suited for my vehicle, but O'Reilly's won't take back there alt since I had in in the vehicle. Any idea what my next step should be?

 

I realize this was years ago but did you ever figure out the exact problem? I'm going thru this exact problem right now.

 

Well there is a battery temp sensor under the battery tray that controls voltage from the alternator to the battery that could have been bad/corroded. Also could have been wires or connections, bad alternator, bad battery, and finally a bad PCM.

The 11 volts thing is what has me wondering, sounds more equipment related than PCM. It is nothing new to have a battery take out a alternator or alternator take out a battery. Better to buy a brand new (not rebuilt) alternator and new battery all at the same time. Check connections including grounding lugs, wires and all while your there. Negative connections usually are the last place people look, make sure you clean the lugs and mating surface.

 

Yes I did find the problem, in a nut shell it was the PCM. Apparently it started with a short in the rear right tail light, possibly from a bad after market replacement part. That in turn apparently caused something to go bad in the PCM. Had it replaced with a used one. At first it still had a problem but once I replaced the tail light all was good. If you can't figure it out on your own find a good mechanic that can diagnose electrical problems .
Good luck.