2000 Durango Towing
I recently purchased a 2000 Durango, 4.7L 4x4, with 118,xxx miles for my winter/bad weather vehicle. It did not come with the factory tow package, so I am wondering what I would need to install. I am not going to tow often at all, just would like to have it on there as an option. The biggest thing I would ever tow would be my Camaro. Thanks.
i believe all the trucks were wired for towing from the factory(harness should be tucked up near the spare tire if i am correct) (only the plug is missing from the back, but i could be mistaken) the trucks came with a class IV hitch if you got the tow package from dodge, the larger (6x9 folding tow mirrors) a heavy duty electrical system including a larger battery and a 160 amp alternator, along with a heavy duty cooling group which included a transmission cooler.
Same battery and 136 amp alt on the 2000. Other than that, +1 above as for the factory setup with the towing package.
I would just add the hitch and call it a day. If really need be, add a aux cooler thereafter as step two. If finally needed (and assuming you don't have one already) move on up to the 136 amp alt. If your alt ever dies as is, just make sure you go back in with a 136.
IndyDurango
I would just add the hitch and call it a day. If really need be, add a aux cooler thereafter as step two. If finally needed (and assuming you don't have one already) move on up to the 136 amp alt. If your alt ever dies as is, just make sure you go back in with a 136.
IndyDurango
Last edited by IndyDurango; Jul 25, 2011 at 11:24 PM.
One thing I noticed with my Durango is when i load my Chevy S-10 drag truck on a car hauler trailer it sags 3 to 4" so if you're planning on going for long drives with your Comaro behind the Durango you might want to consider either air bags that keep it from sagging or a helper spring. I think I'm gonna go with this kit http://www.airliftcompany.com/produc...gs/ridecontrol for my Durango.
I use a http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ 1,200 lbs Equalizer Hitch and they work great! The way they work is the distribute tongue weight from the trailer into both the front and the rear axle. When you see them hooked up and the rear is still sagging then they are not set up correctly. The rear should only sag down like 1 inch tops over the front. So for instance,
When the truck sits without being hooked up the front is 32" and the rear is 34" (not true measurements). When you correctly install the hitch and the weight is loaded then the rear should be around 32.5" and the front around 31.25".
So in short, again the distribution hitch distributes the weight across both tow vehicles axles. It also acts like a pack (or extension) of your tow vehicle and that's why it doesn't sway going down the road.
Now as for air bags, I went with the Firestone Sportrite http://www.firestoneip.com/index.asp...=north_america part number 2222 and they worked great and no drill install! I plumbed them together into one line using a T connector and ran the single line valve out next to the rear licence plate.
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The Firestone Sportrite http://www.firestoneip.com/index.asp...=north_america part number 2222 and they worked great and no drill install!
I had 750 lbs tongue weight on mine with the EQ hitch and aired up to 35 psi when I towed and I ran flat. They held the weight great and I plan on buying a set for my truck as well. No drill install, well sign me up! Of course my part numbers will be different because I have a Ram now. But that part number is the one I used on my old 1998 Durango.
When unloaded you should leave like 8-10 psi in them to take up the slack when someone lifts the truck like getting your tires balanced. But other than that they work great for lifting your truck as well. All you have to do is put a little more air in to get the look you want. However if you have a lift then that part number will not work I would assume.
Here I am hooked up and you can see I'm flat:
I had 750 lbs tongue weight on mine with the EQ hitch and aired up to 35 psi when I towed and I ran flat. They held the weight great and I plan on buying a set for my truck as well. No drill install, well sign me up! Of course my part numbers will be different because I have a Ram now. But that part number is the one I used on my old 1998 Durango.
When unloaded you should leave like 8-10 psi in them to take up the slack when someone lifts the truck like getting your tires balanced. But other than that they work great for lifting your truck as well. All you have to do is put a little more air in to get the look you want. However if you have a lift then that part number will not work I would assume.
Here I am hooked up and you can see I'm flat:
I also strongly recommend the Firestone Sportrites. Very easy to install, and they have turned out to be much better than I had expected. I also got mine to help keep things level when towing, but they've also been great for all around driving. As the kids have gotten bigger the back of the D had started to be a little lower, and the headlights didn't quite cover the road as well. Sure, I could have re-aimed the headlights, but why not just put everything into the position it was designed to be in? With the Sportrites, the lower, non-towing pressure keeps things riding well, and when I'm towing I just pull out a compact bicycle pump and easily set up for that.
One thing I would recommend anytime one puts an airspring, airshock or similar device on their rig: do not tie the air lines together with Tee fitting. If the air lines are T'd together, when the vehicle rolls in a turn, the compressed air spring can force air into the spring on the other side of the vehicle, further lifting that spring and increasing body roll. Just keep the two lines separate, and bring two air lines out to your fill point. Mine are on either side of the license plate, hardly noticeable, but easy to reach when needed.
One thing I would recommend anytime one puts an airspring, airshock or similar device on their rig: do not tie the air lines together with Tee fitting. If the air lines are T'd together, when the vehicle rolls in a turn, the compressed air spring can force air into the spring on the other side of the vehicle, further lifting that spring and increasing body roll. Just keep the two lines separate, and bring two air lines out to your fill point. Mine are on either side of the license plate, hardly noticeable, but easy to reach when needed.









